Skip to content
You are offline — showing a saved version of this page.
A new version is available.
< Back to List

Sojuz - přímá varianta, Ústecká věž 7-/7

Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones, 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 08. Ostroh Východního rohu, Ústecká věž

7-/7

Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Overhang

Last updated 2024-05-11

Grade 7-/7

Climbing season

No climbing restrictions found

  • Open
  • Restricted
  • Unknown
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Community

Help improve this page

No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Difficulty
7-/7
Length
50 m
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay Overhang
Location

50.83278, 14.22081

Parking 1.2 km

50.84315, 14.21647

Via the Sojuz route to the 2nd K of the Apollo route, and via that further under the large overhang. Over the overhang from the right and up the wall directly to the summit.

Discover Sojuz - přímá varianta, a climbing route rated 7-/7. The total length of this route is 50 meters. Check the latest user reviews, view the topo map below, or join the community to add your own photos for Sojuz - přímá varianta.

Rules

Nature protection: tower closed from February 23rd to June 30th due to nesting.

First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Weather forecast
Loading Weather...

Current conditions

No condition reports in the last 30 days.

No logs yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Reviews 0
Have you climbed here?
0 people bookmarked this place
Share this route

Send it to the person you want to climb it with.

WhatsApp Facebook

Nobody to climb with?

Similar routes nearby (around grade 7-/7)
7-/7
Kyklop
From the S terrace, corner or chimney to the foreshore and, like the Pětiminutovka route,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Porcelánová stěna
From the 1st K of the „Talířové cesty“ along the edge (2 K). From the left up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Česko x Sasko
To the right of the "Jo zase přišly složenky" route, up the corner and the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Česko x Sasko
To the right of the Charizard route, start right up the chimney, then up the wall over 5… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Kyklop
From the corner by the Ústí tower, a notch and wall past 4 BH to an overhang. To the left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Hřebenová jehla
From a crack ('Údolní cesty') diagonally right over 2 cracks into the hole to the 4th… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
Other climbing routes in Ústecká věž
9+
Ústecká věž
Like the Velká rošáda route above the 3rd K. Up the wall and the overhang, first slightly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Ústecká věž
Up the blunt edge between the "Valley Route" and the "Šach Mat" route to the 1st K. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8/8+
Ústecká věž
Via the Šach –Mat route to the 6th K and further directly and up the overhanging wall via… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Ústecká věž
To the right of the "Left Valley Chimney", up the wall via 6 K to a ledge and to the left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
2+
Ústecká věž
In the left part of the valley wall, up the chimney into the gully, through to the upper… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
5+
Ústecká věž
Start to the left of the "Left Valley Chimney". Up the wall to a belay station in the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4-
Ústecká věž
Via the upper edge, at the top to the right of it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1