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Horní Žleb, sur la rive gauche de la vallée de l'Elbe, offre plus de 70 voies sur six tours – Černý kámen, Strážce Vrásníku, Soví věž, Hornožlebský kámen, Dvojče et Kalich. L'escalade est traditionnelle sur grès, avec anneaux et protections textiles, au soleil comme à l'ombre ; du 2 au 7/7+.

Faisant partie de 7. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive gauche, 02. Horní Žleb possède 71 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 7/7+. Explorez ses 6 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Route on sun, Route in shadow, Fixed belay.

Règles

  • Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
  • Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive gauche : spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.79195, 14.21983

5
Soví věž
Right plateau (W) edge. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Soví věž
Between 'Plateau route' and 'Old route' via a hand crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Soví věž
Right of 'Old route' through the face into a horizontal notch, briefly left and through… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
5+
Soví věž
Right in the plateau face via a small dihedral/pillar and the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
7/7+
Soví věž
Left of 'Valley crack' through the face via 3 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
2+
Soví věž
Right in the SW face via a crack and a hollow. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4-
Soví věž
Through the crack in the valley SE face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
6-
Soví věž
Left in the valley face via a small dihedral/pillar to K. Up over the overhang into a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Soví věž
Right of the W edge via the face and a small crack to the balcony and along the edge to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4+
Soví věž
Along the left plateau edge lightly into the niche of the 'Tricky Crack' and via that to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Soví věž
Through the center of the NE wall into the crack and via that into the niche, traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Soví věž
Right on the valley side upwards via 2 K, finally right along the edge like Crossroads to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Soví věž
Right of the route Treacherous crack along the edge to the balcony. Overhang and edge via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Soví věž
To the left of the 'Old Route' via a curved crack and wall to the shelf, directly upwards… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Soví věž
To the left on the plateau side through a crack to the 1st bolt, left up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Soví věž
Through the chimney in the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Kalich
Along the NW edge to the ledge, right up the wall to the gully and via that to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Kalich
Start in the middle of the North wall. Up the smooth wall to the ledge and along the ribs… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Kalich
Through the center of the SE wall to the ledge and (by position) to K. Through the recess… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kalich
Along the valley (South) edge to the ledge, overhanging edge to the 'clock' (referring to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Kalich
1.5m left of the East edge, up the rib to the ledge and to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
3
Kalich
Along the plateau (East) edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Strážce Vrásníku
Completely to the left on the plateau (N) side, by a short crack or left up the wall to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Strážce Vrásníku
From the terrace to the right of the South crack, up the wall via K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
2+
Dvojče
Along the plateau edge to the W summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Dvojče
Approximately 3.5 m to the right of the plateau edge, up the S face of the E tower to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
2+
Dvojče
In the middle on the S side in the corner and via a notch into the saddle between the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
2+
Dvojče
From the plateau edge, traverse right along the ledge into the saddle between the summits. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Dvojče
Along the valley East ridge to the main summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Dvojče
On the North side of the E tower, up the wall and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay

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