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Horní Žleb, sur la rive gauche de la vallée de l'Elbe, offre plus de 70 voies sur six tours – Černý kámen, Strážce Vrásníku, Soví věž, Hornožlebský kámen, Dvojče et Kalich. L'escalade est traditionnelle sur grès, avec anneaux et protections textiles, au soleil comme à l'ombre ; du 2 au 7/7+.

Faisant partie de 7. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive gauche, 02. Horní Žleb possède 71 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 7/7+. Explorez ses 6 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Route on sun, Route in shadow, Fixed belay.

Règles

  • Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
  • Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive gauche : spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.79195, 14.21983

5
Dvojče
On the North side of the E tower, up the wall and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2
Hornožlebský kámen
From the North into the chimney between the main summit and the pre-summit and via that… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Hornožlebský kámen
To the right on the North face of the main summit upwards to the recess and via that to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Hornožlebský kámen
From the chimney on the South side briefly to the left and along the cut up the wall to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Hornožlebský kámen
To the left on the North side over steps to the balcony. Up the wall along the crack cut… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Hornožlebský kámen
To the right of the Easy Route over overgrown steps to the shelf and from the right up… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Hornožlebský kámen
To the right on the South side over an overhang, up the wall and through a crack to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2
Hornožlebský kámen
To the left on the South side via a chimney to the pre-summit. Step across to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
3
Hornožlebský kámen
In the middle of the valley (South) wall via a slanting chimney-gully to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Hornožlebský kámen
Along the valley edge over an overhang to the balcony and like 'Celebration of Bells' to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4+
Hornožlebský kámen
On the NE side from the right above the overhang diagonally left to the edge. Continue… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Černý kámen
From the plateau side via a double crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Černý kámen
South wall to the left of the Plateau Edge up the wall via BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4-
Černý kámen
To the left from the valley via the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Černý kámen
To the right of the start of the Forest Forge route, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Černý kámen
In the middle on the S side, up the wall and cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
3
Černý kámen
From the start, also a path along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Černý kámen
As 'Blacksmith's Apprentice' to the balcony and up the wall to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Černý kámen
From the plateau to the left onto the balcony and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Černý kámen
To the left of the 'Spiderweb Variation', up the S wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Černý kámen
In the middle from the valley side, via the slanted crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Černý kámen
To the right on the South side through the crack to the balcony and further along the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
2+
Černý kámen
To the left in the SW wall, up the slanted chimney to the balcony. Through the chimney on… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Strážce Vrásníku
Completely to the right on the valley side, up the crack to the balcony and then as the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Strážce Vrásníku
Up the right valley edge via hour-glasses and steps to the balcony. Then as the Valley… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Strážce Vrásníku
Completely to the left on the S side from the base of the wall, through a depression to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
6-
Černý kámen
In the north wall, up the wall via K and higher up the wall along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Černý kámen
To the right of the NE edge onto the ledge. Up the curved rib to the balcony, then a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Černý kámen
Via the NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Černý kámen
Via the prominent north corner over the block and through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay

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