Le Čertův roh, sur la rive gauche de la vallée de l'Elbe, offre près de 140 voies – surtout sur Assiniboin et Turek, les autres sur Myslivecká věž, Žehlička, Holubník et Chiricahuas. L'escalade est traditionnelle sur grès, avec anneaux et protections textiles, au soleil comme à l'ombre ; du 2 au 8+/9-.
Faisant partie de 7. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive gauche, 04. Čertův roh possède 138 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 8+/9-. Explorez ses 14 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.
Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Route in shadow, Fixed belay, Route on sun.
Règles
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
- Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive gauche : spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.
Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.
- La magnésie est interdite.
- Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
- Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
- Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
- Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Assiniboin Turek Myslivecká věž Žehlička Holubník Chiricahuas Vlkouší stěna Tomahowks Zálesák Slídil Prérie Holoubě Mescalero Boubín
Trier par: Récemment mis à jour Les mieux notées Cotation : des plus faciles Cotation : des plus difficiles Nom (A–Z)
6
Krajina posedlá tmou
To the right on the valley side in a large corner, left of the Powderface route, via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Pozdní láska
To the right on the valley side in a large corner, right of the Powderface route, wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Spárový převis
In the large NE corner about 2 m left of the start of the Powderface route, chimney to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Vzpomínky do sedla zvou
To the right of the right valley (NE) edge via a crack over an overhang, left to the edge… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Powderface
In the large NE corner via a prominent corner crack, chimney and crack over an overhang… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6
Ribannino srdce
Ascending notch of the New Valley Route to the pillar and left wall over 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4-
Údolní cesta
Right in the gully between Holubník and Assiniboin through the corner over blocks to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Nová údolní cesta
From the gorge between Holubník and Assiniboin, the notch under the overhang. Left above… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Počátek
Short climb up the New Valley Route's starting notch and left along the wall and blunt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Jižní stěna
From the start of the Southeast Route, left along the wall to K and further slightly left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6-
Konec
From the start of the Southeast Route, directly up the wall to K at the edge and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Jihovýchodní cesta
To the right on the S side of the W balcony, up the wall to the right beyond the edge to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Severní cesta
On the plateau (S) side of the forepeak, about 5 m left of the Old Route's chimney, climb… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
?
Přechodová varianta (Stará cesta)
On the plateau side from the West over blocks to the long forepeak and along it to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Západní cesta
On the plateau side in the middle on the W side of the main summit via a crack in the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Náhorní cesta
On the plateau side through the Old Route's chimney to the saddle between the rocks. Left… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2
Stará cesta
On the plateau side from the West through a short chimney between the forepeak and the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Krátká cesta
From the start of the Southwest Route from the small balcony, up the wall along the edge… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay