Le Čertův roh, sur la rive gauche de la vallée de l'Elbe, offre près de 140 voies – surtout sur Assiniboin et Turek, les autres sur Myslivecká věž, Žehlička, Holubník et Chiricahuas. L'escalade est traditionnelle sur grès, avec anneaux et protections textiles, au soleil comme à l'ombre ; du 2 au 8+/9-.
Faisant partie de 7. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive gauche, 04. Čertův roh possède 138 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 8+/9-. Explorez ses 14 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.
Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Route in shadow, Fixed belay, Route on sun.
Règles
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
- Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive gauche : spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.
Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.
- La magnésie est interdite.
- Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
- Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
- Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
- Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Assiniboin Turek Myslivecká věž Žehlička Holubník Chiricahuas Vlkouší stěna Tomahowks Zálesák Slídil Prérie Holoubě Mescalero Boubín
Trier par: Récemment mis à jour Les mieux notées Cotation : des plus faciles Cotation : des plus difficiles Nom (A–Z)
4-
Údolní traverz
From the saddle, traverse right along the ledges, descend to a balcony. In the valley… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4+
Obě k sobě
In the middle of the massif, via a double crack into a cave and left via a crack in the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6-
Halali
Via the left crack in the valley wall to its end, traverse left and up the wall to a bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Logická varianta
Start like the Šoulačka route. Then diagonally left to the crack of the 'Halali' route.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Jägermeister
To the left of the Halali route, up the wall past 3 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Zelená kamizola
Along the left valley edge past a bolt to the ring of the Halali route. From there,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Šoulačka
To the right in the valley wall, via the crack over the overhang to a bolt. Right at the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Šoulačka - Varianta
To the left of the bolt, up a small wall into a gully and via it to the ledges. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Exotika
Far right on the valley side (from NW) through a break, along the edge clockwise and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Kančí trofej
Up the wall along the right valley edge past 2 bolts and higher up via the Šoulačka route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Náhorní cesta
In the middle of the plateau wall about 2m up, to the right into a small rib and via it… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Hrana pro otužilce
From the start of the 'Náhorní cesta' (Plateau Route), diagonally left to the SW edge and… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4+
Údolní spára
Along the ledge in the west wall, traverse left into the valley wall and up the crack to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Zlatá horečka
Like the 'Údolní spára' (Valley Crack) route, traverse into the middle of the west wall.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Poutník z Mohameda
Up the narrow west wall, first along the overhanging edge (2 bolts) to the 3rd bolt. Then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4-
Stará cesta
To the right in the plateau wall, up a short wall to the SE edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
8/8+
Devítiocasá kočka
Via the La Nariz del Diablo route to the 1st bolt. Right over the overhang and up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Mezzopiano
Through the middle of the valley wall, from a ledge along a small crack (loop) and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Opěrkový syndrom
About 3.5 m to the right of the start of the La Nariz del Diablo route, up the wall past… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Jen ve dvou
About 2 m to the left of the start of the Bronzový poklad route, up the wall past 3 bolts… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Bronzový poklad
To the right on the valley side, up the wall past 2 bolts and a bolt to the abseil bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
La Nariz del Diablo
Via the left valley edge over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Létající mravenec
Via the narrow left East pillar over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Dřevo před chatou
Up the wall right of the route Kouzelná chata (Magic Cabin) over 4 BH and then left to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+/8-
Beat Box
Up the middle of the wall via a small corner/sokolik over, overhang (2 BH), corner (3rd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Kouzelná chata
Up the iron-rich wall, right of the route Frkot v kisně, over 3 BH and through the corner… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8+/9-
Frkot v kisně
Right part of the overhanging wall between the cracks over 4 BH to the abseil K (bolt). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Žádný party, alkohol a sparty
Left part of the overhanging wall over the overhang (4 BH) to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Nová severní cesta
In the north face, up the slab over K and directly to the balcony. Up the wall over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Bezvětří
From the E balcony, in the fall line of the K route Větrná cesta (Windy Route), up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2