Le Čertův roh, sur la rive gauche de la vallée de l'Elbe, offre près de 140 voies – surtout sur Assiniboin et Turek, les autres sur Myslivecká věž, Žehlička, Holubník et Chiricahuas. L'escalade est traditionnelle sur grès, avec anneaux et protections textiles, au soleil comme à l'ombre ; du 2 au 8+/9-.
Faisant partie de 7. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive gauche, 04. Čertův roh possède 138 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 8+/9-. Explorez ses 14 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.
Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Route in shadow, Fixed belay, Route on sun.
Règles
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
- Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive gauche : spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.
Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.
- La magnésie est interdite.
- Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
- Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
- Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
- Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Assiniboin Turek Myslivecká věž Žehlička Holubník Chiricahuas Vlkouší stěna Tomahowks Zálesák Slídil Prérie Holoubě Mescalero Boubín
Trier par: Récemment mis à jour Les mieux notées Cotation : des plus faciles Cotation : des plus difficiles Nom (A–Z)
5+
Jižní stěna
Through the chimney between the wall and Tomahowks to the bolt. Up the wall under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Větrná cesta
Left of the New North Route, up the wall to the left to the edge (K). Over the step and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Bez přepadu
From the start of the 'Old Route' via an overhanging crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Náhorní cesta
Middle of the plateau wall, then right over an overhang and crack to the ledge. Small… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Přepad
From the saddle through a corner to the adjacent massif, traverse to the NW edge of the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
7/7+
Bez kruhu
Left of the 'Plateau Route' via a wall to a shelf and directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Přímá Údolní cesta
Along the Valley Route to the ledge of the Old Route. Directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4-
Jižní cesta
S wall diagonally right to the edge and briefly up it to the ledge of the 'Old Route'.… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4+
Vrků
SW edge and right wall to K. Wall to the ledge and left crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4+
Údolní cesta
From the NE edge along the ledge left and through the middle of the valley wall to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4+
Vzdušná hrana
From the saddle between Holubník and Holoubet briefly up the chimney, S wall diagonally… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Stará cesta
From the gully between Holubník and Assiniboin diagonally left up the S wall to the ledge… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Přímá varianta
From K of the route "When trees run out of breath", up the wall slightly left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Když stromům dojde dech
From the balcony on the W side, obliquely right along the wall to K. Traverse about 2 m… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4-
Kamrlík na harampádí
To the right in the NW corner, via the chimney and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay +1
6
Vlkouš
Up the middle of the right East pillar to K, via the crack over the overhang and left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Cesta do sedla
Up the middle of the SE pillar over K to the ledge. Traverse right behind the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Prskavka v zeleném
Via the right valley edge over K to the balcony and via the Old Path to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Přímo na vrchol
Up the middle of the plateau wall via K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4+
Jižní hrana
Via the Old Path to the ledge and up the South edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
6+/7-
Žádný mrak tišinu nezadrží
To the left in the valley wall, up the wall to K and along the edge to the ledge. Right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7-/7
Černý čáp na modrém nebi
To the right of the Valley Crack, up the wall over 2 K to the saddle. Traverse left into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Štvanice
Up the plateau wall along the crack diagonally left to the ledge in the NW wall and along… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6-
King-Kong varianta
From the balcony of the "Old Path" via the East edge over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Údolní spára
Via the wall and crack in the valley wall to the balcony and via the Old Path to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6-
Pádící mustang
Via the Hatátitlá route's crack to the end and up the wall to K. Along the right edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Velká země
From the fore-rock up the middle of the East wall (2 BH), later along the left edge (3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4-
Stará cesta - Varianta
As per the "Old Path" route, all the way to the valley side, then diagonally left up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Stará cesta
In the plateau wall via a crack to a large ledge and traverse left or right into the NW… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay