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L'Ostroh Španělské stěny, sur la rive droite de la vallée de l'Elbe, offre plus de 120 voies – surtout sur Španělská stěna, Pyramida, Rozlámaná stěna et Jižní bašta, les autres sur Penzion svět et Španělská bota. L'escalade est traditionnelle sur murs verticaux de grès, avec anneaux et protections textiles, souvent au soleil ; du 2+ au 10.

Faisant partie de 6. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive droite, 08. Ostroh Španělské stěny possède 124 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2+ à 10. Explorez ses 11 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Règles

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from February 1st to June 30th. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Escalade de jour uniquement.
  • Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
  • Les sauts ne sont pas autorisés.
  • Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive droite : spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84876, 14.23203

6
Španělská stěna
To the right of "Výroční spára", up the chimney between the block and the massif,… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4+
Španělská stěna
Start in the left part of the Spanish wall, first up the chimney, then up the distinct… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Španělská stěna
Up the wall to the left of "Picasso" via 2 bolts to the terrace to the 4th BH of "Picasso… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Španělská stěna
To the right of the Picasso route, up the wall via 7 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Španělská stěna
To the left of the Abrahámoviny route, up the slab via 3 BH and a sling to the large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Španělská stěna
Start from the large corner between the South bastion and the Spanish wall. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Španělská stěna
To the right of "Bolero", from the large ledge, up the overhanging wall via 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Španělská stěna
To the right of the route Bolero, up the rib in the overhang to the left via 2 BH under… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Španělská stěna
Completely to the left on the massif, from the corner between the Spanish wall and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
10
Španělská stěna
To the right of the Bolero route, up the wall via a BH to the 1st BH of the Freska route… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Španělská stěna
From the terrace to the right of the Bolero route diagonally right to a BH. Directly to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Španělská stěna
To the left of "Bolero", up the overhanging crack and edge via 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Španělská stěna
Completely to the left, up the corner and crack via 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Jižní bašta
Start from the detachment to the left of "Varianta Cesty středem". Diagonally left up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Jižní bašta
In the overhanging wall to the right of the route "Hugo", climb through the wall across … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Jižní bašta
From the 9th BH of "Chronos & Kairos" right from the edge, overhang and wall across 4 BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Jižní bašta
Like "Hugo" approx. 4m upwards and left wall and at the top edge and overhanging rib… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Jižní bašta
Through the center of the left pillar into the crack, along it and wall to the 1st anchor… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
2+
Strážce pyramidy
In the right part of the wall across the block and overhang Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Jižní bašta
In the left part of the valley face like the Timeout route (4 BH) further left the north… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Jižní bašta
Left of the "časová tíseň" route wall and edge across 7 BH to the 1st anchor of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Strážce pyramidy
Through the center of the wall diagonally to the right (5BH) to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Mimoni
Along the chimney and edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Strážce pyramidy
In the left part of the wall diagonally to the right Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pyramida
From the south side, step over from the boulder and briefly along the edge. Then left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8-/8
Pyramida
From the balcony near the start of the Sahara hadr route. From the right onto the SE edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
9+
Pyramida
Like "Mumie" to the 5th BH and via overhanging wall directly to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Pyramida
Like "Vratký králíček" to the 3rd BH and along the edge left across 2 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Pyramida
Using a chimney technique in the SW face to the 1st anchor. Traverse left, using a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Pyramida
From the start of Tichá dohoda (rappel bolt), using a chimney technique (1st BH) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2

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