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Grimper à 08. Ostroh Španělské stěny

124 voies
11 domaines
2+–10 notes

L'Ostroh Španělské stěny, sur la rive droite de la vallée de l'Elbe, offre plus de 120 voies – surtout sur Španělská stěna, Pyramida, Rozlámaná stěna et Jižní bašta, les autres sur Penzion svět et Španělská bota. L'escalade est traditionnelle sur murs verticaux de grès, avec anneaux et protections textiles, souvent au soleil ; du 2+ au 10.

Faisant partie de 6. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive droite, 08. Ostroh Španělské stěny possède 124 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2+ à 10. Explorez ses 11 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Règles

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from February 1st to June 30th. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Escalade de jour uniquement.
  • Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
  • Les sauts ne sont pas autorisés.
  • Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive droite : spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84876, 14.23203

Google Waze
Španělská stěna 34 voies Pyramida 22 voies Rozlámaná stěna 19 voies Jižní bašta 18 voies Penzion svět 8 voies Španělská bota 7 voies Štikas 4 voies Pištec 4 voies Mimoni 3 voies Strážce pyramidy 3 voies Podzemí 2 voies
Trier par: Récemment mis à jour Les mieux notées Cotation : des plus faciles Cotation : des plus difficiles Nom (A–Z)
8-/8
Rozlámaná stěna
From the start of the Deziluze route, up the wall around the loose block and above it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Rozlámaná stěna
Chimney to the left of "Osmibřízkové" to the end and wall diagonally to the right over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Rozlámaná stěna
To the left of the "September Boys" route, up the corner narrowing into a crack, higher… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Španělská bota
Via the "Arena" route to the 2nd bolt. By the overhanging edge over 4 bolts to the "Arena… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Španělská bota
Up the middle of the overhanging wall over the bolt to the corner and up it to the pillar… Rock Climbing
5
Španělská bota
Up the chimney, higher up the corner under the overhang, over the overhang into the crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Španělská bota
Up the middle of the S wall over the 1st bolt into the small cracks and along them to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Španělská bota
Up the right overhanging edge to the 1st bolt. From it up the wall to the 2nd bolt and to… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Rozlámaná stěna
Start with a brittle wall to the left of "Crazy Sima" over 4 rings to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Španělská bota
Up the corner between Spanish Wall and Spanish Boot to the balcony (belay). Continue up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Španělská bota
To the left of "Carmen", up the wall (3 BH) to the pillar and to the 2nd bolt of "Carmen"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Jižní bašta
Completely to the right in the overhanging wall, up the edge (3 BH), then left up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Jižní bašta
From the massif near the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Jižní bašta
In the overhanging wall, to the right of the route "Don Quijote", climb the wall (5 BH)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Jižní bašta
To the right of "Sraz veteránů", climb the wall (4 BH) to the 5th BH of "Sraz veteránů"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9+
Jižní bašta
Freely under the ceiling to the rappel BH. Through the ceiling and overhang via 2 BH to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5
Jižní bašta
Up the wall and edge to the bolt. Up the overhanging wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Jižní bašta
Start in the right part of the south face. Left to the balcony and through the middle of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Jižní bašta
In the left part of the south face, up the corner to the platform and diagonally right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Jižní bašta
Through the center of the valley face along the small cracks, then corner and left to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Jižní bašta
Through the center of the valley face like the Hugo route along cracks using chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Štikas
Through the center of the valley face (4BH) to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Jižní bašta
From the ledge in the left part of the NW face directly up the slab across 2 anchors to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2+
Mimoni
Through the center of the upper face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Mimoni
Through the center of the west face (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Štikas
Along the left edge (3BH) to the shelf to the large pitons. Small wall 4th bh and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Štikas
From the upper balcony between Pyramida and Štikas (belay station). Along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Štikas
Like Numerologická výstraha, 1st bh into the crack and along it to the ledge. Left via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Podzemí
Climb the overhanging wall directly into the hole of the "Chicane" route and follow it to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pištec
Up the slab (2K), higher up to the left of the overhang to the summit with rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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