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Grimper à 1. Ostrov

3754 voies
4 domaines
1–9+ notes

Ostrov est le site rocheux autour du hameau du même nom, près de Tisá, juste à la frontière saxonne. Il se compose de hautes tours et de massifs de grès dur et, avec plus de 3 700 voies sur climbing.place, c'est l'un des secteurs les plus vastes et les plus fréquentés des Grès de l'Elbe. Avec Tisá et Rájec, il forme un triangle où l'on peut facilement passer une semaine entière de grimpe.

L'escalade y est typique du grès et engagée : fissures, cheminées et murs avec une protection espacée par anneaux et sangles. On peut loger à Ostrov même ou dans le village voisin de Tisá.

Faisant partie de Grès de l'Elbe, 1. Ostrov possède 3754 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 1 à 9+. Explorez ses 4 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Règles

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Sokl
Through the center of the overhanging wall over a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Palcát
Left part of the N wall, cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Palcát
From W overhanging edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Palcát
Through the center of the overhanging wall with a hand crack to its end and right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Palcát
SE wall to the ring under the large overhang. Over the overhang to the summit.
5+
Palcát
Fall from the foreground rock to the W edge, diagonally to the right and double crack to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Kořenáč
Via the crack to the right of the start to the hole and traverse left to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Pučmeloun
Via the left downhill edge n. v. (no summit). Rock Climbing
5+
Pučmeloun
In the west wall along the crack to the ring. Up the wall n. v. (no summit). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Pučmeloun
In the downhill path, via the crack and the wall n. v. (no summit). Rock Climbing
4+
Pučmeloun
From the overhang, via the overhanging crack, n. v. (no summit). Rock Climbing
5+
Pučmeloun
From the overhang between the massif via the overhanging wall (ring and hourglass) n. v. … Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Hastrman
From Osmička to the top of Hastrman. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Hastrman
To the left of the Zimní céčko route, up the overhanging wall over 3 rings to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Hastrman
Up the NE face to the ring. Over the overhang along the edge and another overhang to the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Hastrman
Along the overhanging upper edge over 2 BH to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Hastrman
From the right part of the valley (W) wall to the ring, upwards, traverse right under the… Rock Climbing
3
Hastrman
From the saddle to the small balcony, step to the left into the valley wall and to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Hastrman
Start like the Valley Route. Up the crack and wall by the edge to the ring. Up the wall… Rock Climbing
3
Prašivka
Center of the north face up the crack to the clock and up the rib to the ledge. Up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Prašivka
Center of the S face past the bolt, as above. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Prašivka
Center of the downhill (NW) face up the crack (clock) and right under the flake to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Prašivka
Right part of the downhill face past the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Prašivka
Up the uphill edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Kočička
In the center of the N face to a crack and up the face (ring) across a large balcony,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kočička
Center of the NE face into a crack and to a ring. Up the face across the balcony to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
4+
Kočička
Wide crack up the SW face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Kočička
From the ring of the Berlení route to the ledge and right to the edge. Along the edge to… Rock Climbing
6-
Kočička
Up the face to the right of Normální cesta (Údolního koutu) to the ring. Then into the… Rock Climbing
4+
Kočička
From the corner to the ring, from the left over the overhang and up the south face to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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