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Grimper à 1. Ostrov

3754 voies
4 domaines
1–9+ notes

Ostrov est le site rocheux autour du hameau du même nom, près de Tisá, juste à la frontière saxonne. Il se compose de hautes tours et de massifs de grès dur et, avec plus de 3 700 voies sur climbing.place, c'est l'un des secteurs les plus vastes et les plus fréquentés des Grès de l'Elbe. Avec Tisá et Rájec, il forme un triangle où l'on peut facilement passer une semaine entière de grimpe.

L'escalade y est typique du grès et engagée : fissures, cheminées et murs avec une protection espacée par anneaux et sangles. On peut loger à Ostrov même ou dans le village voisin de Tisá.

Faisant partie de Grès de l'Elbe, 1. Ostrov possède 3754 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 1 à 9+. Explorez ses 4 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Règles

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2
Kočička
From the plateau side, easily along the ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Chlebník
Up the face to the right of Údolní cesta, past the ring into the gully and up it n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Lesník
From the slope in the space between the massif and the tower, up the overhanging face to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Lesník
Through the center of the north face by a corner crack n. v. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Lesník
Through the center of the NW face by a short rib to the 1st K. Up the face to the 2nd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Lesník
From the center of the north face along the ledge to the right to the 1st K. Up the face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Lesník
Start left of "Severní cesta". Up the crack to the 1st K. Diagonally right to the rib and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Lesník
Variant along the edge past the 1st ring of the Krycí Jméno route and along the edge of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Lesník
From the slope in the south face, left to the ledge and up the face past 2K n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Lesník
From the space between "Chlebník" up the face past K to the large ledge and left along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Lesník
Along the valley (west) edge to the 1st K. Up the face diagonally left to the 2nd K. Left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Lesník
From the slope, through the center of the south face, to the corner between the east and… Rock Climbing
3
Lesník
Left in the south face over K to the eastern peak. Rock Climbing
2
Lesník
From the saddle, up the uphill edge. Rock Climbing
5+
Široký roh
By crack to the beginning of the gully near the right edge of the wall to a large boulder… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Nuget
By rib and wide crack to the balcony, up to the ring and to the right. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Nuget
From the deep corner (small cave) up the overhanging corner to the balcony. Right along… Rock Climbing
4-
Nuget
Up the corner of route a) to the balcony. Right up the wall past the K (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Nuget
Briefly up route a) and left to the K (ring). Up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Nuget
By the Bílá místa (White Spots) route to the ring. Left to the edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Nuget
Up the corner to the platform and straight past the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Nuget
By the edge past the clock to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Nuget
Through the middle of the wall, past the ring to the top to the sun. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Nedělní věž
Along the South edge across the clock of Cesta velkých snů (Way of Big Dreams), without… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Císařské stěny
Up the wall across the ring n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Císařské stěny
Along the Southern edge across the ring n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Císař
From the ring of Benke's route, traverse left to the Old Route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Císař
Along the NE edge to the ring and to the summit. (The ring was installed later in 1986). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Císař
From the saddle traverse to the right to the center of the North wall to the ring.… Rock Climbing
5
Císař
Along the ledge from the NE edge horizontally to the right into the valley wall. A few… Rock Climbing

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