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Grimper à 1. Ostrov

3754 voies
4 domaines
1–9+ notes

Ostrov est le site rocheux autour du hameau du même nom, près de Tisá, juste à la frontière saxonne. Il se compose de hautes tours et de massifs de grès dur et, avec plus de 3 700 voies sur climbing.place, c'est l'un des secteurs les plus vastes et les plus fréquentés des Grès de l'Elbe. Avec Tisá et Rájec, il forme un triangle où l'on peut facilement passer une semaine entière de grimpe.

L'escalade y est typique du grès et engagée : fissures, cheminées et murs avec une protection espacée par anneaux et sangles. On peut loger à Ostrov même ou dans le village voisin de Tisá.

Faisant partie de Grès de l'Elbe, 1. Ostrov possède 3754 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 1 à 9+. Explorez ses 4 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Règles

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Sfinga
From a large wedged boulder between Ober and Sphinx via wall to the ring. To a sloping… Rock Climbing
6
Obr
To the left in the valley side edge (1st ring) to the large balcony of the Northern Route…
5+
Obr
In the left part of the valley wall (to the right of the chimney), a hand crack below the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Sfinga
From "Z stěnou" to the ring, partly overhanging wall (2 rings) directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Obr
Variant of the Northern Route below a large overhang. Crack, groove and crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Obr
Along the SW edge a few meters upwards, traverse to the left to a notch in the middle of…
5+
Obr
From the recess in the right part of the valley wall over a nose, through the wall to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Obr
To the left in the valley wall, a hand crack to its end (- variant "Border Route") and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Obr
Via the "West Wall" route traverse to the left under the middle crack, between the "New… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Obr
Corner in the right part of the S wall to a ring. To the left onto the edge under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5
Obr
Along the SW edge to a platform to a ring. With a build-up and along the edge to a ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Obr
In the center of the S wall over a bolt and an overhang to a ring. Through a crack… Rock Climbing
6
Obr
Through the center of the S wall over an appendage to a ring. Upwards via a small crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Obr
Through the SE wall to a wide band, to the right to a ring and a crack (protection behind…
8/8+
Obr
Start as the "Memorial to the Deceased" route to the balcony, higher through the wall… Rock Climbing
6-
Obr
Through the wall to the right of the S edge to a balcony. Along the edge over a ring to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Obr
From the large "clock" on the "Goldsmith's Scales" route, through the wall to the left to… Rock Climbing
5+
Obr
Through the center of the SE wall to a ring, to the right into a hole and through an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Obr
To the left of the E edge, a rib, later a double crack to the right onto a balcony.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Obr
Start as the SE route, immediately traverse to the right. Through the right part of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Obr
From the large overgrown platform in the NE wall, through the center to the 1st ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7/7+
Obr
To the right in the gully, through the wall over overhangs (4 rings) to the 1st ring of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Obr
From the 2nd ring of the Northern Route directly along the edge over a K n. v. (Kote nad… Rock Climbing
5
Obr
From the NE, easily from the gully onto a platform in the NE wall to a ring. From the…
5
Obr
Chimney in the left part of the valley wall to a platform to a ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Běliningrad
Along the left downhill edge to the bolt of the route 'Alcoholic Tremor'. Up the wall… Rock Climbing
6-
Běliningrad
Up the edge, passing the bolt, to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Venušin pahorek
From the corner in the south wall to the ledge, crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Venušin pahorek
Through the center of the south wall, use the cracks under the ceiling. Overhang and… Rock Climbing
5+
Venušin pahorek
Wall along the right downhill edge over 2 rings to the ring of the Mouse Route. Follow… Rock Climbing

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