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Grimper à 1. Ostrov

3754 voies
4 domaines
1–9+ notes

Ostrov est le site rocheux autour du hameau du même nom, près de Tisá, juste à la frontière saxonne. Il se compose de hautes tours et de massifs de grès dur et, avec plus de 3 700 voies sur climbing.place, c'est l'un des secteurs les plus vastes et les plus fréquentés des Grès de l'Elbe. Avec Tisá et Rájec, il forme un triangle où l'on peut facilement passer une semaine entière de grimpe.

L'escalade y est typique du grès et engagée : fissures, cheminées et murs avec une protection espacée par anneaux et sangles. On peut loger à Ostrov même ou dans le village voisin de Tisá.

Faisant partie de Grès de l'Elbe, 1. Ostrov possède 3754 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 1 à 9+. Explorez ses 4 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Règles

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Hranolek
On the right in the S wall along the fine cracks to the top. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Ježek
Along the right valley edge over 2 bolts n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Hranolek
Through the center of the S wall over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Hranolek
Through the center of the S wall chimney to the ledge. Briefly to the left and another… Rock Climbing
4+
Hranolek
From the plateau on the right in the valley wall along the indistinct edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Hranolek
To the left in the valley wall from the blocks between Hranol and Hranolek to the right… Rock Climbing
5
Hranolek
From the saddle from Hranol up the wall to the ledge to the ring. Up to the step on the… Rock Climbing
5
Hranolek
NE edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Sírová věž
Under the overhang to the left behind the edge and in the right part of the face to the… Rock Climbing
5
Sírová věž
In the left part of the upland (SE) face under the large overhang and up the crack to the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Sírová věž
Through the middle of the valley face to the small balcony. Up the crack to the bolt and… Rock Climbing
6-
Sírová věž
Up the crack in the middle of the north face to its end and left up the face to the bolt.… Rock Climbing
5+
Sírová věž
In the right part of the upland (SE) face under the large overhang and traverse to the… Rock Climbing
6
Sírová věž
Up the crack in the valley edge to the bolt. Right along the edge to the small crack, up… Rock Climbing
4+
Obelisk
Right of the old route several meters upwards, right to the crack and up to the platform… Rock Climbing
3
Sírová věž
In the right part of the SW face to the foreland and up the face diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Obelisk
Rock Climbing
4-
Sírová věž
On the left in the south face, up the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Obelisk
Start on the NE edge, traverse right to the ledge to the diagonal crack and up to the… Rock Climbing
5
Obelisk
From the south to the large platform in the valley face. Up the NW edge to above the bolt… Rock Climbing
5+
Obelisk
In the right part of the valley face along the edge to the large platform in the valley… Rock Climbing
5
Obelisk
Directly to the top from the bolt. Rock Climbing
5+
Obelisk
From the valley along the NW edge to the ledge and left to the fixed ropes. Up the face… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Obelisk
In the left part of the south face, through the hole to the 1st bolt. Up the face through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Obelisk
In the right part of the south face, by chimney and face to the 1st bolt. Up the face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Obelisk
Through the middle, later in the left part of the east face under the summit block.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
8+/9-
Věž nad strží
From the corner on the left, past the bolt into the hole and directly past the 2nd bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Sloup
Up the wall past the bh to the ledge (clock) and over the overhang diagonally right into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
4+
Hrad
From the start, traverse diagonally right into the crack and to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Hrad
From the boulder near the E edge to a small balcony and to the summit. Rock Climbing

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