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Grimper à 1. Ostrov

3754 voies
4 domaines
1–9+ notes

Ostrov est le site rocheux autour du hameau du même nom, près de Tisá, juste à la frontière saxonne. Il se compose de hautes tours et de massifs de grès dur et, avec plus de 3 700 voies sur climbing.place, c'est l'un des secteurs les plus vastes et les plus fréquentés des Grès de l'Elbe. Avec Tisá et Rájec, il forme un triangle où l'on peut facilement passer une semaine entière de grimpe.

L'escalade y est typique du grès et engagée : fissures, cheminées et murs avec une protection espacée par anneaux et sangles. On peut loger à Ostrov même ou dans le village voisin de Tisá.

Faisant partie de Grès de l'Elbe, 1. Ostrov possède 3754 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 1 à 9+. Explorez ses 4 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Règles

Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.

  • La magnésie est interdite.
  • Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
  • Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
  • Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
  • Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Hrad
Right of the Normal route. Up the wall to a ledge with a ring, and right to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Hrad
Up the center of the wall to a crack. Rock Climbing
5+
Hrad
In the downhill W face, left of the chimney, along the edge to the ring. Through a crack… Rock Climbing
6-
Hrad
From a standing start, climb into the NW face, traverse left to the edge and to the ring.… Rock Climbing
6
Hrad
Up the center of the S face, past two rings, to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Hrad
Right of the E edge, upwards and through a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Hrad
Right of Via Karolina, up the wall past K. and through the center of the pillar to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Hrad
Via the Dramatický obrat route 2m up and traverse to the center of the pillar. Through a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Hrad
Up the wall along a fine crack, past the ring, into the Downhill route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hrad
Up the wall between the Adršpašská direttisima route and a chimney to the ring, then into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Hrad
Through the chimney, then along the W edge and later through a crack in the downhill wall. Rock Climbing
5+
Hrad
Downhill route to a traverse. Gully to the 1st ring and to the balcony to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Hrad
On the right in the downhill wall, initially using handholds, then a wider crack to the… Rock Climbing
5
Hrad
In the right part of the downhill (NW) wall, into a widening crack to a platform.… Rock Climbing
6-
Hrad
Downhill (NW) wall diagonally left to the start of a long crack, and up that to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Hrad
Up the wall near the S edge, later through a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Hrad
From the grassy area to the right of the S route, along the edge and a crack to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Hrad
Up the center of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Hrad
Through a crack in the E face under the overhang to the ring, and then up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
9
Hrad
Up the wall past the ring to the ring of the Pivo na pražský hrad route, and then to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Hrad
Right from st. c. by stemming between the tower and the outcrop to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Hrad
Left of the start to the E edge, diagonally left across the wall to a ledge with a ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Hrad
From the upper side, through the chimney between the peaks. Rock Climbing
4-
Lesní kámen
Along the edge to the right of path a). Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Lesní kámen
To the left of the Údolní spára (Valley crack) up the face directly over the 2nd bolt to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Lesní kámen
Left in the north wall at R, bh and 2nd R. to G. Rock Climbing
5
Lesní kámen
Up the valley-side crack to the ledge, along it to the left and up the hand crack to the… Rock Climbing Danger
7+/8-
Lesní kámen
In the north face, to the right of the route Jen pro bílé (Only for White) up the face… Rock Climbing
6-
Lesní kámen
In the left part of the south face, through the hole to the ring and further to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Lesní kámen
Up the valley-side face via the crack near the NW edge. Rock Climbing

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