L'Ostroh Gilotiny est, avec près de 250 voies sur 22 rochers, le plus grand secteur de la rive gauche de la vallée de l'Elbe. Parmi les plus grands : Sicilská stěna, Indiánka, Gilotina, Pivní kámen, Smolař, Monolit et Otec. Voies traditionnelles et sportives sur grès, avec anneaux et protections textiles, souvent à l'ombre ; du 2 au 10+/11-.
Faisant partie de 7. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive gauche, 10. Ostroh Gilotiny possède 247 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 10+/11-. Explorez ses 22 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.
Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Textile belay, Sport Climbing.
Règles
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
- Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive gauche : spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.
Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.
- La magnésie est interdite.
- Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
- Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
- Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
- Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Sicilská stěna Indiánka Gilotina Pivní kámen Smolař Monolit Otec Sierra madre Indián Pivní tácek Blueberry hill Totem Mariáš Tee pee Postýlka Filuta Gargamel Klikař Shrek Íšek Panenka Qac
Trier par: Récemment mis à jour Les mieux notées Cotation : des plus faciles Cotation : des plus difficiles Nom (A–Z)
7/7+
Samson
At the left edge of the E wall past K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Velké Popovice
Double stance at the E edge to K and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Východní stěna
From the center of the NE wall diagonally right past K to the N edge (BH) and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Východní stěna - Varianta
From K of the route "East Wall" directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Děčínský ležák
From the start of the "East Wall" route, directly up the wall past K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8+/9-
Rádler
Along the right edge of the NE wall past 4 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Viry v hlavě
Follow the route "Owls in the Head" to its 1st K and from there directly up the wall past… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Vejry v hlavě
Left on the N wall via a crack (K), then diagonally left along the small cracks and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Západní cesta
Up the W wall along the left edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8/8+
Tygří žert
Up the N wall from the right past 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4-
Plochá dráha - Varianta
From K diagonally left and then along the crack running to the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Plochá dráha
Through the middle of the W wall past K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4-
Cesta v ponožkách
By standing in the chimney between the tower and the adjacent block, and via that to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
5+
Rychlé pípy
To the right of the "Flat Track", up the wall past K directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Prvnáček
From W diagonally right up the wall past 2 BH to a large block (abseil BH) and via the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Orosená dvanácka
Through the middle of the E wall via a hole to BH and to the summit (abseil). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Malý piva
Right up the SW wall past 2 BH to the large block and as "Old Route" to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4-
Varianta (Staré cesty)
To the right of the Prvňáček route, with a swing up onto the slab and then left into the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2+
Pivní test
In the right part of the upper side along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Víla pivonka
Along the right upper (S) edge past 2 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
5 piv na Jirku
To the right of the SE edge, via the rib past 2 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3
Pivobraní
In the middle of the upper wall via a hole to BH and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4-
Pivní teřich
To the right of the "Beer Hunger" route, along the rounded SW edge upwards (BH) and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4+
Pivní kolotoč
To the right of the "Pivárium" route, via the corner to the 1st BH. Diagonally left along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Pivárium
To the left of the route "Beer Carousel", directly up the wall past BH to the 2nd BH of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4-
Pivní hlad
Right on the W wall via a shallow groove (BH) and right along the rounded edge past 2nd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4-
Dvanáct piv
Right of the route "Nealko.." up the wall (BH) to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Nealko aneb s čistou hlavou
Left in the W wall via holes to the summit and right to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1