L'Ostroh Gilotiny est, avec près de 250 voies sur 22 rochers, le plus grand secteur de la rive gauche de la vallée de l'Elbe. Parmi les plus grands : Sicilská stěna, Indiánka, Gilotina, Pivní kámen, Smolař, Monolit et Otec. Voies traditionnelles et sportives sur grès, avec anneaux et protections textiles, souvent à l'ombre ; du 2 au 10+/11-.
Faisant partie de 7. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive gauche, 10. Ostroh Gilotiny possède 247 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 10+/11-. Explorez ses 22 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.
Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Textile belay, Sport Climbing.
Règles
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
- Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive gauche : spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.
Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.
- La magnésie est interdite.
- Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
- Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
- Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
- Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Sicilská stěna Indiánka Gilotina Pivní kámen Smolař Monolit Otec Sierra madre Indián Pivní tácek Blueberry hill Totem Mariáš Tee pee Postýlka Filuta Gargamel Klikař Shrek Íšek Panenka Qac
Trier par: Récemment mis à jour Les mieux notées Cotation : des plus faciles Cotation : des plus difficiles Nom (A–Z)
7/7+
Noční můra
To the right of the "Vendetta" route, over BH and 3 rings to the ledge (BH). Continue up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Corleone
To the right of the "Vendeta" route, over the hourglass and 4 BH to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Bezzubý Yuchen
To the left of the "Vendetta" crack, up the overhanging wall over 6 BH to the rappelling… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Cosa Nostra
Via the "Vendetta" route 2 m up and left to the ring. Along the edge and up the wall (3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Vendetta
In the right part of the wall, along the crack and through the fissure to its end.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
10+/11-
El Bombone
From the 4th BH of the "Al Capone" route, go up and right into the hole (BH) and further… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
La Bomba
From the 4th BH of the "Dangerous Ascent" route, go left and up the wall over 3 BH into… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Nebezpečné stoupání - Varianta
From the 7th BH, diagonally right almost to the 6th BH of "Toothless Yuchen" and back to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Nebezpečné stoupání
Through the overhanging crack and up the wall over 6 BH to the 7th BH. From there, go up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Al Capone
To the right of "Italian Capriccio" up the wall over 4 BH and from the left along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Bestseller
From the block left of "Italian Capriccio" up the overhanging wall and along the crack (3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Zbytečná smrt
From the 2nd ring of the "Bestseller" path, directly through the crack and right to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
10-/10
Smrt s celerem
Via the "Celery" path to the 3rd ring of the "Bestseller" path and right into the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Italské capriccio
Through the chimney at the base of the wall to the pinnacle, from there into a large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
S celerem
To the right of the start of the "Stormy Etna" path up the wall below the overhang.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Bouřlivá Etna
Between Indian and Sicilian wall through the chimney to the balcony and E wall over 2 K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
9/9+
Celer
From the first ring of the path "With celery" directly via BH to the 3rd ring of the path… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Lauschgift
Along the "With Celery" path under the overhang, briefly right and directly over it (1st… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Les vepres siciliennes
In the corner between Indian and Sicilian wall through the chimney over the balcony… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Calzone
In the corner between Indian and Sicilian wall from the balcony to the left of the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Dýmka míru
Along the "Fiery Water" path over 3 BH to the ramp, along it left to the left edge and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Boží protekce
In the E wall to the right of the "Fiery Water" path, up the wall over 6 BH directly to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Ohnivá voda
E wall over 3 BH and right to the edge. Along it (3 K) to the ramp. Arbitrarily to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Psí vojáci
Along the valley edge over 5 BH to the 3rd K of the "Last Shot" path. Along it to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Poslední výstřel
To the left of the NE edge through a crack to the pulpit and up the valley wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Bledá tvář
Right from the valley through the corner to the balcony (1st BH). Traverse left and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Varianta „Posledního výstřelu“
Through the circle directly to the 1st K of "The Last Shot". Through it to the 2nd K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
El Camino del Rey
To the right of the "Cao News" path up the wall over 5 BH to the belay. BH of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Cao News
In the right part of the terrace along the crack (1st BH) and up the wall to the 2nd BH.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Existence
To the right of the El Camino del Rey path along the blunt edge (1st BH), from the right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3