L'Ostroh Gilotiny est, avec près de 250 voies sur 22 rochers, le plus grand secteur de la rive gauche de la vallée de l'Elbe. Parmi les plus grands : Sicilská stěna, Indiánka, Gilotina, Pivní kámen, Smolař, Monolit et Otec. Voies traditionnelles et sportives sur grès, avec anneaux et protections textiles, souvent à l'ombre ; du 2 au 10+/11-.
Faisant partie de 7. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive gauche, 10. Ostroh Gilotiny possède 247 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 10+/11-. Explorez ses 22 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.
Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Textile belay, Sport Climbing.
Règles
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
- Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive gauche : spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.
Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.
- La magnésie est interdite.
- Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
- Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
- Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
- Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Sicilská stěna Indiánka Gilotina Pivní kámen Smolař Monolit Otec Sierra madre Indián Pivní tácek Blueberry hill Totem Mariáš Tee pee Postýlka Filuta Gargamel Klikař Shrek Íšek Panenka Qac
Trier par: Récemment mis à jour Les mieux notées Cotation : des plus faciles Cotation : des plus difficiles Nom (A–Z)
6-
O ha le
Access from the upper terrace and left to the balcony to the 1st BH. Up the slabby pyrite… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Cesta pokojného bojovníka
To the right of the corner along the edge and wall over 4 BH diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Strix
Through the corner in the middle of the upper wall over 2 BH diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Goyathlay
Together with the Oha path below the overhang. Directly over it and the edge (BH) to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Speedy Gonzales
From the 6th BH of the "Iron Nut" path, diagonally left up the overhanging wall across 6… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Entre dos tierras
Start via the route "Path of the Iron Nut" and from the 4th BH directly up the wall … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Odvedu vás do Siera Madre
From the lowest point of the wall along the blunt edge over 4 BH and a slabby wall into a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Cesta železného oře
To the right of the "Geronimo Trail" path, up the wall directly and then diagonally right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Stará cesta
From the North via the corner crack between the tower and the massif over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Geronimova stezka
From the ledge at the start of the "Old Route" to Indiánka, right up the corner crack,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Český vrabec
Like Vultures of Mexico, up the crack (BH) to the balcony and right up the wall along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Supové Mexika
From the ledge at the start of the "Old Route" to Indiánka, right up the falcon-like… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Bílý otec
Left of the "Old Route" up the wall over 7 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Dobré trávy
From the balcony to the right of the "Marine Infantry Route", directly over 4 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Topič Proužek na parníku hodil šavli do pytlíku
Along the Marine Infantry route to the ledge above the 1st K at the start of the traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Tropická hrana
Like the "Marine Infantry Route" about 8m up to the overhang. Traverse left to the N edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7/7+
Zelený Raoul
Left of the "Marine Infantry Route" up the wall over 5 BH to the 2nd K of the "Tropical… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Existenční vzpoura
About 5m along the "Marine Infantry" and traverse left into the middle of the valley wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Cesta námořní pěchoty
Up the crack and corner in the NW wall to the 1st K. Up the crack to its end and traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Amok
At the right valley edge, a short crack and along the edge over K to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Existenční vzpoura direkt
Through the middle of the valley wall over K to the 1st K of the "Existential Rebellion"… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Pochybná existence
In the right part of the valley wall over 8 BH and K to the 3rd K of "Existential… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Pozor schod
In the left part of the valley wall, over the overhang via 3 BH into the "Abraxas" route… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Veřejný nepřítel
From the 1st BH of the "Tooth of Time" route, right up the wall and edge over 6 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Vyšší princip
From the start of the "Abraxas" route, up the wall over 3 BH to the 1st K of the "Return… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Návrat k romantice
Up the crack in the SE wall to the ledge and traverse right to the 1st K. Diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Zub času
Right in the SE wall over 2 BH to the 1st K of the "Abraxas" route and over 2 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Abraxas
From the fore-rock in the SE wall, traverse right (BH) to the 1st K and diagonally right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Tee pee
In the SE wall, a large corner under the overhang (K). Under the overhang, traverse right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Suchý výkon
Right of the Medvědí hlava (Bear's Head) route onto the terrace and right along a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2