L'Ostroh Gilotiny est, avec près de 250 voies sur 22 rochers, le plus grand secteur de la rive gauche de la vallée de l'Elbe. Parmi les plus grands : Sicilská stěna, Indiánka, Gilotina, Pivní kámen, Smolař, Monolit et Otec. Voies traditionnelles et sportives sur grès, avec anneaux et protections textiles, souvent à l'ombre ; du 2 au 10+/11-.
Faisant partie de 7. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive gauche, 10. Ostroh Gilotiny possède 247 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 10+/11-. Explorez ses 22 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.
Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Textile belay, Sport Climbing.
Règles
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
- Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive gauche : spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.
Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.
- La magnésie est interdite.
- Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
- Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
- Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
- Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Sicilská stěna Indiánka Gilotina Pivní kámen Smolař Monolit Otec Sierra madre Indián Pivní tácek Blueberry hill Totem Mariáš Tee pee Postýlka Filuta Gargamel Klikař Shrek Íšek Panenka Qac
Trier par: Récemment mis à jour Les mieux notées Cotation : des plus faciles Cotation : des plus difficiles Nom (A–Z)
7-/7
Okamžik pravdy
Along the left valley edge up the wall and through the crack to the balcony at the 1st K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Konečný verdikt
In the S wall to the right of the large corner via 2 BH to the balcony (3rd BH on the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Krvavá čepel
Via the "Guillotine" route 20m to the ledge and directly over K, BH and K to the balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8-/8
Veličenstvo kat
In the left part of the valley wall, to the left of the start of the Guillotine route,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Svatební cesta do Jiljí
Through a prominent corner to the right of the route "Major Wave" to the 1st K. Higher… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Major Vlna
4m to the right of "Heads Up" along the crack (K, BH) to the overhang (2nd K). Through… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9+
Lety mimo
Up the wall to the left of the "Final Verdict" route via 2 BH below the overhang (K),… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8/8+
Varianta cesty Major Vlna
From the 2nd K of the Major Vlna route directly over the overhang and further along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Švédská ocel - Přímá varianta
Up the wall (K) directly to the 1st K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Švédská ocel
In the S wall from the left along the ledge to the 1st K. Up the wall via the 2nd K to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Hlavu vzhůru
Along the SE edge or directly on the edge via 5 K to a large platform and up the wall via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Hlavu na špalek!
To the left of the "Swedish Steel" route, through the corner and up the wall via 5 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Baletní škola
Along the right edge through the corner (K), later up the wall via 4 K to the rappel K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Ježiši Marjá
As "Hashishi Christ" diagonally through the crack to the 1st K. From the left up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Elce pelce,
As Hashishi Christ, higher up as Heavenly Pastures (K), diagonally left through the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Hašiši Kriste
As "Heavenly Pastures" via K into the crack and right via 6 K to the rappel K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Kryndy pindy
From the start of the "Tuti Fruti" route diagonally right to the BH. Up the wall along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Tuti Fruti
To the right of the start of the "Ant Hill" route, up the S wall via 4 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Krucipísek
To the left of the "Heavenly Pastures" route, up the wall via K and BH to the 2nd K of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Nebeské pastviny
Through the middle of the wall via K into the crack, left to the edge and along it (3 K)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Duolit
To the right of the corner, up the wall along the edge to the 1st BH. Up the wall via 2… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Voprcajtung
To the right of the route "Prey", up the wall via BH to K. From there directly into the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Mraveniště
Start in the upper left part of the massif. Up the gully a few meters to the left and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Termitiště
Up "Ant Hill" a few meters and then continuously left along the edge via 4 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Píčovina
Through the middle of the wall briefly via a small pillar. Up the wall over 4 BH,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Monokrat
Via the route Píčovina (Bullshit/Fuckery) to the 4th BH, from there directly up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Safari
Left of "Kořist" (Prey/Booty) directly up the wall to the 1st BH and further slightly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Kořist
Along the right valley (E) edge over 3 K and 4 BH to the rappelling point. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Zahnutý stereo
In the left part of the wall, from the small pillar, up to the 1st K. Over the ledges … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8/8+
Kvádro mono pinto
From the 5th K of the route "Zahnutý stereo" (Bent Stereo), traverse left and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1