L'Ostroh Gilotiny est, avec près de 250 voies sur 22 rochers, le plus grand secteur de la rive gauche de la vallée de l'Elbe. Parmi les plus grands : Sicilská stěna, Indiánka, Gilotina, Pivní kámen, Smolař, Monolit et Otec. Voies traditionnelles et sportives sur grès, avec anneaux et protections textiles, souvent à l'ombre ; du 2 au 10+/11-.
Faisant partie de 7. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive gauche, 10. Ostroh Gilotiny possède 247 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 10+/11-. Explorez ses 22 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.
Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Textile belay, Sport Climbing.
Règles
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
- Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive gauche : spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.
Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.
- La magnésie est interdite.
- Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
- Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
- Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
- Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Sicilská stěna Indiánka Gilotina Pivní kámen Smolař Monolit Otec Sierra madre Indián Pivní tácek Blueberry hill Totem Mariáš Tee pee Postýlka Filuta Gargamel Klikař Shrek Íšek Panenka Qac
Trier par: Récemment mis à jour Les mieux notées Cotation : des plus faciles Cotation : des plus difficiles Nom (A–Z)
7/7+
Indián Krák
Briefly like "Return to Romance" and up the left crack over 2 K below the overhang. Like … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Klobásová alej
Through the corner between Totem and the left pillar of Indiánka via BH through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Medvědí hlava
In the left pillar over an overhang and up the wall over 7 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Takejta
Right of "Tašunka" via a sloping crack to K. Traverse right, up to a sloping ledge, along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Rodinná přepadovka
Right of the Medvědí hlava (Bear's Head) route, via a waterfall from the corner (BH) over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Lolitám
From the valley up the wall into the left crack and along it to its end, further along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Fenkám
Up the Southeast edge over 2 BH to the balcony and higher up the wall over 5 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-/7
Tašunka
From the valley up the crack to its end to the 1st K. Left behind the edge into a crack,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Voo-Doo
From the 1st K of the "Tašunka" route, directly up the wall over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Bezstarostný větroplach
Left of the "SE Chimney" over 5 BH, higher up the wall (right of the SE Chimney) over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
La chica checa
Up the SE face over 2 K to the ledge and further up the wall to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Jihovýchodní komín
From the SE chimney over BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Peachfish
From the 1st BH of the "Carefree Windbag" route, slightly left and up over 5 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Červená řeka
To the left of the corner separating the right pillar, along the blunt edge (3 BH),… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Znouzecnost
On the right pillar, right of the edge, up the wall over 3 BH to the pulpit. Higher up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Rychlé mokasíny
From the left, along the edge of the right pillar over 2 K to the rappel K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Kalumet
Up the crack to the left of "Fast Moccasins" to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Coco tee
In the left part of the massif, up the wall along the blunt edge over 2 BH to a ledge (K)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Čo
In the right part of the massif, directly up the wall and via small cracks over 2 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Žabí hřbet
Completely left through the chimney to a horizontal discontinuity (loop) and to the 1st… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Amulet
On the main pillar via a crack at the blunt edge to the 1st K. Up the wall over the 2nd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Náměstí nebeského míru
Through the corner and cracks in the North face over the 1st K into the crack and up it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
9+
Amores perros
Right of the route "Square of Heavenly Peace" up the wall over 4 BH under the overhang to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Pavel´s Moonwalk
Right from the start of the "Moon Face" route via a corner and left to the 1st BH. Up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Space-Eggs
Right of the route "Square of Heavenly Peace" up the wall to the fore-rock and up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Hrdelní trest
In the fall line of the sharp edge of the "Guillotine" directly over 2 K to the 1st K of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Měsíční tvář
As a path through the Moon Landscape, traverse the crack and left along the edge over 3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Měsíční krajinou
Right in the valley wall via a corner, higher up a crack to its end to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Gilotina
In the fall line of a mighty corner, separating two prominent edges, along the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Červenozelená střela
As "Guillotine" to the flake and left through the gully to the 1st K. Up the wall via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2