L'Ostroh Gilotiny est, avec près de 250 voies sur 22 rochers, le plus grand secteur de la rive gauche de la vallée de l'Elbe. Parmi les plus grands : Sicilská stěna, Indiánka, Gilotina, Pivní kámen, Smolař, Monolit et Otec. Voies traditionnelles et sportives sur grès, avec anneaux et protections textiles, souvent à l'ombre ; du 2 au 10+/11-.
Faisant partie de 7. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive gauche, 10. Ostroh Gilotiny possède 247 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 10+/11-. Explorez ses 22 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.
Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Textile belay, Sport Climbing.
Règles
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
- Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive gauche : spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.
Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.
- La magnésie est interdite.
- Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
- Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
- Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
- Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Sicilská stěna Indiánka Gilotina Pivní kámen Smolař Monolit Otec Sierra madre Indián Pivní tácek Blueberry hill Totem Mariáš Tee pee Postýlka Filuta Gargamel Klikař Shrek Íšek Panenka Qac
Trier par: Récemment mis à jour Les mieux notées Cotation : des plus faciles Cotation : des plus difficiles Nom (A–Z)
7-/7
Ferum
From the balcony, through the center of the E face over 3 BH to K, then up the wall over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Prcasova zkratka
From the 4th K of the route "Backlash" directly up the smooth wall to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Zpětný ráz
Right of the route "That was a stroke of luck", via the wall over 4 BH to the 5th BH.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
To byla klika
Left of Otec in the corner several meters up and traverse right to the edge. Along it… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4+
Neopakovatelný zážitek
In the corner via a double crack to the 5th BH of the route "Temporary Amnesia". Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Chvilková amnézie
Left of the corner along the rounded edge over 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Cesta pana nadlesního
Via the right crack and wall (BH) to the summit to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Levoboček
From the 1st BH of the route "Friday the Thirteenth", right via the wall over 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Skákal pes
Start left of "Mr. Forester's Route" via a broken corner and crack over an overhang, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Jižní zkratka
Between "Mr. Forester's Route" and "Temporary Amnesia", diagonally left up the wall over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Pátek třináctýho
In the South face, via the left edge over 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Po práci legraci
Completely on the left in the South face, briefly via the chimney, higher up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Všemohoucí Klikava
Via the center of the wall over 3 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Pokakaný štěstíčko
Completely on the right of the massif, via the wall and edge, over 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Z prdele klika
In the right part of the wall, via a crack and a small wall, over 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Kličky-cvičky
Via the left edge over 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Zikyho sen
Through the crack in the right part of the E wall over the overhang to its end and a step… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Pohádka Pro Áju
Along the edge in the middle of the wall to the ledge, then the wall over 2 BH and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Kliky-háky
Via the left part of the wall over 3 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Vřesoviště
About 3 m to the right of the edge, climb the wall over 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Mechoviště
Via the SE edge over 4 BH to the balcony to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Sladce spi
Through the chimney between Panenka and Postýlka briefly upwards and then via the blunt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Ukolébavka
To the right of the route "Vřesoviště" (Heatherland) from the terrace along the prominent… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4-
Východní stěna
On the E wall into the notch and via that to the balcony. Climb the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Stará cesta
From the gorge to the right and up the W wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Kuzmín
To the left of the route "Sweetly Sleep" via the chimney and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4+
Blop
At the eastern valley edge, up the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Kouzelný lektvar
At the South edge, up the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4+
Krason
Through the center of the SW face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1