Mordor, sur la rive gauche de la vallée de l'Elbe, offre près de 180 voies – surtout sur le Malý ďábel, les autres sur Mistr, Ďáblova stěna, Věž Jílového potoka, Brusinková věž et Černý Petr. Voies traditionnelles et sportives sur grès, avec anneaux et protections textiles, souvent à l'ombre ; du 2 au 11.
Faisant partie de 7. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive gauche, 11. Mordor possède 177 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 11. Explorez ses 16 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.
Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Route in shadow, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Textile belay.
Règles
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
- Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive gauche : spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.
Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.
- La magnésie est interdite.
- Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
- Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
- Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
- Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Malý ďábel Mistr Ďáblova stěna Věž Jílového potoka Brusinková věž Černý Petr Baldrick Diktátor Tvář Zub Krabice na sušenky Cimrman Džordžo Biváček Samotářka Samson
Trier par: Récemment mis à jour Les mieux notées Cotation : des plus faciles Cotation : des plus difficiles Nom (A–Z)
9+
Hodinka Jógy
In the right part of the wall via 4 bolt hangers. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Za starých časů
Through the center of the wall via 4 bolt hangers. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
10+/11-
Papírový měsíc
Along the left valley edge via 5 bolt hangers. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Plechová Venuše
Through the center of the N face via two ledges to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8-/8
Pro Bělku
In the left part of the wall via 3 bolt hangers. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Cesta hárajících fen
To the right on the N face to a block and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Pět vajec
Through the center of the S face along a diagonal crack diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Šplh po tyči
In the left part of the E face via a bolt hanger to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Korunka
Through the center of the E face via 2 bolt hangers to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
2
Chodecká
From the fore-rock via the slabby NW face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Ostružinový džem
Via the overhanging SW edge and slabby face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Overhang
2+
Slunovrat
To the right of the "Hiking" route, an overhang from the fore-rock to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Severní převis
Up the chimney of the "East Route" to the plateau and traverse right to the N side of the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Kocovina
Through the center of the SE face via a hole and a small rib to a ledge, traverse 2m left… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
3
Východní cesta
Right in the plateau wall via the chimney to the balcony and via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Přes převísek
Start under the right part of the upper wall. Up the wall and corner under the overhang,… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Persil Supra
To the right in the E wall, via a smooth wall under the overhang and left via a crack to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Danger +1
4+
Humus roku
To the right of the SE edge, via a broken crack to the forepeak and as the "East Route"… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Palmex
Left in the valley wall, through a hollow diagonally right via BH to the 2nd BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Hrazda
From the rock near the SE edge, traverse to the ledge, then right and as "Humus of the… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
R.I.P
To the right of "Palmex" directly via 3 BH to the 2nd BH of "Palmex". Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Temperatura rotpunkt
From the start of the Palmex route, directly via the overhanging wall over 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Darmo mluvit
To the left of the route "Genocide of Strahov Squirrels" up the wall via 3 BH to rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
2+
Západní komín
From the plateau side, left into the valley wall and up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Boční vchod
Completely in the right part of the massif, via the overhanging wall over 2 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+/8-
Genocida Strahovských veverek
Right in the valley wall via 4 BH to rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4-
Údolní stěna
To the left of the "West Chimney" up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Chronická erekce
Left part of the overhanging wall via 2 BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3