Mordor, sur la rive gauche de la vallée de l'Elbe, offre près de 180 voies – surtout sur le Malý ďábel, les autres sur Mistr, Ďáblova stěna, Věž Jílového potoka, Brusinková věž et Černý Petr. Voies traditionnelles et sportives sur grès, avec anneaux et protections textiles, souvent à l'ombre ; du 2 au 11.
Faisant partie de 7. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive gauche, 11. Mordor possède 177 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 11. Explorez ses 16 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.
Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Route in shadow, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Textile belay.
Règles
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
- Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive gauche : spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.
Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.
- La magnésie est interdite.
- Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
- Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
- Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
- Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Malý ďábel Mistr Ďáblova stěna Věž Jílového potoka Brusinková věž Černý Petr Baldrick Diktátor Tvář Zub Krabice na sušenky Cimrman Džordžo Biváček Samotářka Samson
Trier par: Récemment mis à jour Les mieux notées Cotation : des plus faciles Cotation : des plus difficiles Nom (A–Z)
2+
Západní cesta
Via the rib near the SW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Nedělní cesta
In the uphill wall, traverse left along the ledge into the valley N wall. Via the crack… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Pravá údolní cesta
In the uphill wall, traverse left along the ledge into the valley N wall, and to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Jump
On the left uphill side from the rock over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7-/7
Palicí do palice
To the left of 'Optical Illusion', up the overhanging wall via 2 K to the 4th BH of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
6-
Pravá kotlová
In the W wall of the massif, via the right corner crack to the terrace. Freely to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Zlaté listí
Up the overhanging wall to the right of the Chimney via 3 K to the terrace. Freely to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Optický klam
In the right part of the W face, diagonally left to the 1st BH and up the wall to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Hybernace
Up the overhanging wall to the right of the valley edge via 2 BH to the 3rd BH of the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
To tu Ještě zbylo
From both right and left along the valley edge and higher up from the right up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Andělé a Čertíci
Up the left edge of the chimney in the W face briefly, then diagonally left up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Bacha na trpaslíky
To the left of the 'Tvrdolín' route, up the corner (2 BH) to a ledge and slightly right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Tvrdolín
To the left of the valley edge, up the overhanging iron-rich wall via 4 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Španělský mušky
Up the valley edge and left to the 1st BH of 'Tvrdolín'. From the right, up the edge and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Zkratka
From the balcony, directly up the wall via 2 BH to the ledge at the 4th BH of the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Popelnice na kůži
To the right of the 'Forbidden Crack' route, up the wall via 4 BH and to the right to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Čelní srážka
From the 3rd BH of the 'Evasive Maneuver' route, slightly from the left via BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Úhybný manévr
From the terrace along a small crack and up the wall (2 BH) to the 3rd BH. Right and up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Varianta Zakázaná spára
Like 'Forbidden Crack' to the pulpit and further up the wall via BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Kolenovrt
To the left on the S terrace via a falconer's crack (using protection from the 'Forbidden… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Zakázaná spára
Up the wall to the right of the 'Kolenovrt' route, via 3 BH to the pulpit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Viagra
To the left of the 'Kolenovrt' route's crack, up the wall (2 BH). Diagonally right into… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Viagra Direct
From the 2nd BH of the 'Viagra' route, directly to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Mokrý trenky
To the right of the 'Chambermaid Swing' route, diagonally right up the wall via 2 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Chambermaid Swing
On the left edge of the S terrace, up a wide crack via K to a recess (rappelling point),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Východoněmecká nápravná
On the left side of the S face, up the chimney via 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
10
Cat Groove
Briefly up the crack like the 'Chambermaid Swing' route and diagonally left up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
11
To tu ještě nebylo!
To the right of the route "East German Correctional" via a crack, wall, and edge over 4…