Mordor, sur la rive gauche de la vallée de l'Elbe, offre près de 180 voies – surtout sur le Malý ďábel, les autres sur Mistr, Ďáblova stěna, Věž Jílového potoka, Brusinková věž et Černý Petr. Voies traditionnelles et sportives sur grès, avec anneaux et protections textiles, souvent à l'ombre ; du 2 au 11.
Faisant partie de 7. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive gauche, 11. Mordor possède 177 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 11. Explorez ses 16 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.
Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Route in shadow, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Textile belay.
Règles
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
- Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive gauche : spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.
Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.
- La magnésie est interdite.
- Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
- Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
- Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
- Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Malý ďábel Mistr Ďáblova stěna Věž Jílového potoka Brusinková věž Černý Petr Baldrick Diktátor Tvář Zub Krabice na sušenky Cimrman Džordžo Biváček Samotářka Samson
Trier par: Récemment mis à jour Les mieux notées Cotation : des plus faciles Cotation : des plus difficiles Nom (A–Z)
9+
Krottensee
From the 2nd BH of the 'Out of Pottenstein' route, diagonally right up the wall via 2 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Out of Pottenstein
Start from the block at the far left of the massif. Up the rounded edge and to the right,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Bílá magie
Right in the Z-wall via a short edge (BH) and up the wall via the 2nd BH and hourglass to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Tak akorát
Left of the "Quartet" route via 3 BH to the lower-off BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Černá magie
Up the corner via the 1st BH to a ledge. Left via the overhanging edge (2nd BH) and up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Pravá magie
Like "Black Magic" to the ledge. Right to the BH and up the wall to the 3rd BH of the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Kvarteto
Right edge of the Z-wall via 3 BH to the lower-off BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Veselý teátr
Left in the Z-wall via 3 BH directly to the 3rd BH of the 'Hard End' route and along it… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Balkónová scéna
Center of the Z-wall via 3 BH to the lower-off BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Welcome to Mordor
On the valley side, right of the corner, in the V-shaped wall via a crack over BH and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Těžkej konec
Completely to the left in the Z-wall via 2 BH and diagonally right to the 3rd BH. Up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Hop nebo trop
In the valley wall, briefly up the corner and traverse left to the 1st BH. Then along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Poctivá robota
In the valley wall, up the corner, then a narrow crack/chimney and wall into a hole, and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Vodní svět
From the 2nd BH of the "El Niño" route, left and via 6 BH to the lower-off BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
El Niňo
Center of the valley wall, left of "Hop or Drop" via 5 BH to the lower-off BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Rapl
Between 'Face' and 'Black Peter' on the pillar via a crack (BH), later an edge (BH) and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Rapl přímá varianta
From the last BH of the 'Rapl' route, straight up the wall to the summit to the lower-off… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
První vráska
Right overhanging edge via 6 BH to the lower-off BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Balrog
To the left on the valley side via a wide crack (1st BH) up to a wedged stone. Right (2nd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
The Nose
Start via the 'Dirty Girl' route over 4 BH and then right into the corner below a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Tváří v tvář
Left up the chimney (BH) and corner to the 2nd BH. Traverse right (3rd BH). Up the corner… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Pleťová maska
Via the route "Face to Face" above the 3rd BH into the corner. Right up the wall via 3 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Skurutí běh
Center of the wall via 6 BH to the lower-off BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Království smíchu
To the right of the route 'Eyes for Crying' up the wall via 3 K to an overgrown ledge (to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Kyselá prdel
Center of the wall via 8 BH to the belay ring K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Oči pro pláč
Between the routes "Kingdom of Laughter" and "Sour Ass" on the wall via BH, 4 K, and BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Špinavá holka
Completely to the right in the valley wall, up the corner to a ledge and traverse left.…
10-/10
Útěk
From the 5th BH of the "Weakest, You're Fired" route, diagonally right up the wall via 2… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-/10
Nejslabší, máte padáka
From the 1st BH of the "Old Affair" route, right beyond the edge into the lower wall to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Kompromit
Start via the "Full of Optimism" route to the 1st BH, then traverse left along the edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3