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Grimper à České středohoří

1673 voies
41 domaines
1–10- notes

Les monts de Bohême centrale (České středohoří) sont un massif volcanique de Bohême du Nord, surtout dans la région d'Ústí nad Labem, qui s'étire sur environ 70 km du sud-ouest au nord-est et que coupe la vallée de l'Elbe. La roche est en grande partie basaltique, avec du trachyte et un peu d'andésite ; le point culminant est la Milešovka (837 m) et environ 84 % du massif sont protégés par la zone paysagère de 1 068,9 km². Un bon choix pour grimper sur autre chose que du grès.

Parmi les plus grands rochers figurent Ptačí stěny, Výří skály, Tašov, Kašparák – Chotovický vrch et Vrabinec, puis Skály u Mukařova, Zlatník, Brná et Špičák u Mostu ; à l'extrémité ouest se dresse le légendaire Bořeň en phonolite. Outre les voies traditionnelles, on y trouve de beaux sites sportifs. La plupart des rochers sont dans la zone protégée – vérifier les restrictions auprès de la fédération tchèque d'alpinisme et de l'administration de la zone.

Faisant partie de Bohême du Nord-Ouest, České středohoří possède 1673 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 1 à 10-. Explorez ses 41 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Route in shadow.

Règles

The area lies in the Central Bohemian Uplands PLA, with some crags in nature reserves. Check the ČHS crag database for any restrictions.

Les règles de la ČHS pour les sites rocheux tchèques et celles des commissions locales s'appliquent. Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé, ne pas modifier les prises.

3+
Trojzubec
Briefly like the 'Old Route', higher up left onto the pillar. Rock Climbing
3
Molo
From the large plateau above the bivouac, up the right edge of the south wall (2 drilled… Rock Climbing
4+
Molo
Start in the lowest part of the wall. Left of the bivouac, up the rounded edge and higher… Rock Climbing
5
Molo
Between the Pier and the Schooner, up an overhanging short wall (drilled hook) to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Molo
Through the corner from the bivouac to the large plateau (1st belay). Up into a prominent… Rock Climbing
4
Maják
Right of the 'Cannon Pipe' chimney, up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Maják
From the block located at the left edge of the valley wall, to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Maják
Through the chimney in the left, side wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Maják
Up the middle of the wall (2 drilled hooks) to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Maják
Up the left part of the valley wall (drilled hooks) to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Maják
Up the edge to the left of the Cannon Pipe. Secured with slings. This route is dedicated… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Maják
Along the right edge over 3 drilled hooks to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Škuner
From the valley side to the terrace, and from there right to the second terrace. Up the… Rock Climbing
5
Škuner
From the slope (NW) right to the left edge of the 1st terrace of the 'Left Valley Way'.… Rock Climbing
4
Škuner
Middle of the valley wall along inclined slabs, past 2 drilled hooks to the 2nd terrace,… Rock Climbing
6
Škuner
From the plateau side from the (East) up the wall, higher up along the (East) edge over 4… Rock Climbing
4
Škuner
Along the right valley edge (or along the edge) over 3 drilled hooks to a crack and up it… Rock Climbing
7
Škuner
Up the wall between the 'Eastern' and 'Western' routes directly above the belay bolt to a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4+
Škuner
Right part of the plateau wall briefly to the (West) edge and up it to the summit (2… Rock Climbing
5
Stěna nad boulderblokem
Right of the bivouac, via a pillar and wall into grassy terrain! And through it to the…
5
Mlok
From the last bolt, directly via a smooth corner to the rappel ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
4
Mlok
By the wall from "Crane" into a prominent corner. Via the corner (4 bolts), above the 4th… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Stěna nad boulderblokem
From the terrace on the Boulder Block, about 5m right of the Great Wall, directly to the…
4+
Trojčata
From the center of the terrace through a shallow corner (2 bolts) and over the block (!)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
4+
Trojčata
From the left edge of the terrace through the corner (2 bolts) over the block (!) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Trojčata
As 'Halloween' to the 1st bh, then directly up the corner (bolt) to the balcony to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
6
Sluneční stěna
In the right part of the wall via the slab, higher up through the crack (5 bh) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
4
Sluneční stěna
From the common belay station, up the crack and through the recess to the abseil ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Sluneční stěna
Through the corner between the 'Crack' and 'Šavlička' routes (6 bh) to the chain. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Drak
Through the corner to the right of the 'Šavlička' route (4 bolts) to a ledge (1st belay… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun

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