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Grimper à České středohoří

1673 voies
41 domaines
1–10- notes

Les monts de Bohême centrale (České středohoří) sont un massif volcanique de Bohême du Nord, surtout dans la région d'Ústí nad Labem, qui s'étire sur environ 70 km du sud-ouest au nord-est et que coupe la vallée de l'Elbe. La roche est en grande partie basaltique, avec du trachyte et un peu d'andésite ; le point culminant est la Milešovka (837 m) et environ 84 % du massif sont protégés par la zone paysagère de 1 068,9 km². Un bon choix pour grimper sur autre chose que du grès.

Parmi les plus grands rochers figurent Ptačí stěny, Výří skály, Tašov, Kašparák – Chotovický vrch et Vrabinec, puis Skály u Mukařova, Zlatník, Brná et Špičák u Mostu ; à l'extrémité ouest se dresse le légendaire Bořeň en phonolite. Outre les voies traditionnelles, on y trouve de beaux sites sportifs. La plupart des rochers sont dans la zone protégée – vérifier les restrictions auprès de la fédération tchèque d'alpinisme et de l'administration de la zone.

Faisant partie de Bohême du Nord-Ouest, České středohoří possède 1673 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 1 à 10-. Explorez ses 41 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Route in shadow.

Règles

The area lies in the Central Bohemian Uplands PLA, with some crags in nature reserves. Check the ČHS crag database for any restrictions.

Les règles de la ČHS pour les sites rocheux tchèques et celles des commissions locales s'appliquent. Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé, ne pas modifier les prises.

6
Sluneční stěna
From the belay station directly (4 bolts) to the 4th bolt of the 'Last Jump' route. Then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
6
Sluneční stěna
From the common belay station, briefly up the crack, then left via the slab (6 bh and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Sluneční stěna
In the fall line of the overhang via the slab below the overhang. To the right over it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5-
Sluneční stěna
In the middle of the wall, traverse diagonally left over easy terrain to a ledge (belay… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
3
Mufloní stěna
Several meters left of the 'Up the Stairs' route via a small wall (piton) and further up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Sluneční stěna
Before ascending the 'Moufflon Wall' ramp via the corner (bolt) to the ledge (belay… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5+
Břečťanová stěna horní
Through the gully to the last tree (sign). To the right along the edge, higher up to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
4
Věžička Baroš
From the base, diagonally left up the wall, then through a shallow indentation and over…
4+
Masiv dospívajících dívek
Through the right part of the wall via 5 bolts to the terrace. Stand. Along the slabby…
4
Ještěrka
From J via a corner and a recess (3 rivets) to the lowering ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
3
Ještěrka
Up the jagged edge (3 rivets) to the lowering ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
3+
Ještěrka
In the left part of the wall through a corner and a crack over a rivet to the rappel. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
4
Ještěrka
To the left of the edge via a smooth slab (3 bh and rivet) to the lowering ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Stěna vodopádu
To the right of 'Tovární komín' (Factory Chimney) through corners behind the small tower … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
7+
Výří věže - velký výr
From the left corner to the right into the right corner, then to the end and traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
3+
Výří věže - velký výr
To the right of the bivouac over ledges via a crack and chimney to a small tower, then… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
3+
Malý sokol
Along the edge of the pillar directly n. t. (own protection, brittle!!!) Rock Climbing Friends Route on sun +1
4
Malý sokol
From the right side of the gorge over steps and a corner crack to the balcony (rivet),… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5
Velký sokol
Up the wall to the right of Pekárna (Bakery) under the curved crack and through it,… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
3+
Patník
Up the crack in the right part of the wall onto the pillar. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Patník
Along the left crack (2 pitons/bolts) onto the pillar to the bolt hanger. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
?
Vodopády v průčelské rokli
Up the frozen Vyří Waterfall over an ice step, through the forest into a small gully, and… Route in shadow Laid wall
6
Parník
Up the left part of the wall below a smooth slab, then up the left part of the slab below… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Skalní pilíř
Through the indentation of the central wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Skalní pilíř
In the right part of the wall, over the overhang into a niche, then through an… Rock Climbing
3
Pevnost
Through the indentation to the left of 'Escape from Prison' via 2 rings to the sub-summit… Rock Climbing
3
Pevnost
Start at Hláska, up the wall diagonally right to the top ledge of the Fortress. (3… Rock Climbing
3
Pevnost
Start at Hláska, up the wall diagonally left to the top ledge of the Fortress. (3 drilled… Rock Climbing
6
Skalní pilíř
Left in the wall along a crack to the gully that separates the attached pillar (large… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pevnost
From the grassy platform, via an overhanging crack to the summit (3 drilled hooks). Rock Climbing

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