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Grimper à Hvězda - Mezi Hvězdou a Kovářovou roklí

171 voies
42 domaines
2–8/8+ notes

Le secteur entre Hvězda et la Kovářova rokle est, avec plus de 170 voies sur 42 tours, le plus grand secteur des parois de Broumov. Les tours aux voies les plus nombreuses sont Půp, Mušle, Sokratova hlava, Bumbrlíček, Konečník et Šampión. L'escalade est traditionnelle avec anneaux et protections textiles ; du 2 au 8/8+.

Faisant partie de Parois de Broumov, Hvězda - Mezi Hvězdou a Kovářovou roklí possède 171 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 8/8+. Explorez ses 42 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay.

Règles

- Do not damage nature - do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks and in their surroundings, do not remove stones, wood, soil, etc. from terraces and the surface of the rocks - Use only tourist routes and access paths marked in the permit attachment for access - Do not disturb nesting birds and inform the PLA administration if nesting is detected - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight, in shoes that do not damage the surface of the rocks - Do not use magnesium - Prohibition of damaging or modifying the surface of the rocks (inappropriate handling of the rope, chopping holds, steps) - Prohibition of using belay devices that damage the rock (wedges, friends) - First ascents and installation of fixed belays only with the prior consent of the PLA administration The permit does not apply to bouldering.

Seasonal climbing ban from 1 January to 30 April. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Escalade uniquement sur les rochers désignés – les rochers fermés sont signalés par des panneaux d'interdiction.
  • Les règles de la ČHS pour le grès s'appliquent (pas de magnésie, pas de protections métalliques, rocher sec uniquement).
  • Camping uniquement dans les campings.

National nature reserve. On the designated rocks climbing is mostly allowed from 1 July to 31 December. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Les règles de la ČHS et des commissions régionales locales s'appliquent.
  • Créer ou tailler des prises est interdit.
  • La magnésie est interdite ou seulement tolérée selon le secteur.
  • Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé – après la pluie ou en hiver, cela peut durer des heures, voire des jours.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Útes
In the middle of the NE face by the right crack over the ledge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Škeble
From SW, to the right of the Horská variant, from the block by stepping over and a crack… Rock Climbing
4-
Škeble
Via the Autumn Colors route to the plateau. In the corner by zig-zag chimney to the… Rock Climbing
6
Škeble
From the NW, to the right of the route 'Autumn Colors', take the unmistakable corner… Rock Climbing
6-
Škeble
Via the Autumn Colors route to the plateau. To the left by double crack in the corner to… Rock Climbing
4-
Škeble
To the left in the SW (from the Cat), take the left crack, higher up the chimney of the … Rock Climbing
6
Škeble
From the NW (from the Shell), through the corner crack to the platform and through the… Rock Climbing
3
Šestivěží
From the NE, on the middle tower, through the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Šakal
In the NE wall (from the birch tree), through the middle chimney and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Šampionův masiv
To the right of the route 'Rasovina na Šampiona', through the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Šampionův masiv
Immediately to the right of the route 'Spíš strach než sezónní únava', through the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sokratova hlava
From the W (right of the passage), through a double crack into the chimney and up to the… Rock Climbing
6
Stěna Šampáň
In the left part of the NE wall, directly over a ledge to the crack and through it to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sokratova hlava
Along the route 'Enlightenment' to the oblique notch. Directly through the chimney and… Rock Climbing
2+
Šakal
In the NE wall (from the beech tree), to the right through an oblique chimney to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Stěna Šampáň
In the middle of the NE wall, through a crack over a ledge (1st ring) to the end at the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Sokratova hlava
From the SW, through a system of chimneys to the pillars, traversing to the 'head' and… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sokratova hlava
From the exit, in the corner, through a crack onto the pillar. Up the wall to the pillars… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sokratova hlava
From the N (from the Sphinx) into the cave, through which ascend right into the window… Rock Climbing
2+
Slůně
From the SW, right through the crack. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sokratova hlava
In the right part of the NE wall, through a crack and a fissure into a bifurcation,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Slůně
From the NE, from the balcony through the crack and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sokratova hlava
From the bifurcation, take the right crack to the balcony and the corner crack onto the… Rock Climbing
2
Rybář
From the south, by overhang and to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Rybář
From the valley by stemming to the ledge and by a gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Rybář
From the NE, using resistance on a ledge, traverse left and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Slůně
From the SW, through the crack to the end, right along the wall into the crack, then… Rock Climbing
4-
Ostříži
From SE, right of the chimney, by the left crack to the blocks. Left into the gap between… Rock Climbing
2
Lišák
From SW by stepping/leaping over to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Lišák
From SE by a distinct corner (dihedral) (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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