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Grimper à Hvězda - Mezi Hvězdou a Kovářovou roklí

171 voies
42 domaines
2–8/8+ notes

Le secteur entre Hvězda et la Kovářova rokle est, avec plus de 170 voies sur 42 tours, le plus grand secteur des parois de Broumov. Les tours aux voies les plus nombreuses sont Půp, Mušle, Sokratova hlava, Bumbrlíček, Konečník et Šampión. L'escalade est traditionnelle avec anneaux et protections textiles ; du 2 au 8/8+.

Faisant partie de Parois de Broumov, Hvězda - Mezi Hvězdou a Kovářovou roklí possède 171 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 8/8+. Explorez ses 42 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay.

Règles

- Do not damage nature - do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks and in their surroundings, do not remove stones, wood, soil, etc. from terraces and the surface of the rocks - Use only tourist routes and access paths marked in the permit attachment for access - Do not disturb nesting birds and inform the PLA administration if nesting is detected - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight, in shoes that do not damage the surface of the rocks - Do not use magnesium - Prohibition of damaging or modifying the surface of the rocks (inappropriate handling of the rope, chopping holds, steps) - Prohibition of using belay devices that damage the rock (wedges, friends) - First ascents and installation of fixed belays only with the prior consent of the PLA administration The permit does not apply to bouldering.

Seasonal climbing ban from 1 January to 30 April. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Escalade uniquement sur les rochers désignés – les rochers fermés sont signalés par des panneaux d'interdiction.
  • Les règles de la ČHS pour le grès s'appliquent (pas de magnésie, pas de protections métalliques, rocher sec uniquement).
  • Camping uniquement dans les campings.

National nature reserve. On the designated rocks climbing is mostly allowed from 1 July to 31 December. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Les règles de la ČHS et des commissions régionales locales s'appliquent.
  • Créer ou tailler des prises est interdit.
  • La magnésie est interdite ou seulement tolérée selon le secteur.
  • Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé – après la pluie ou en hiver, cela peut durer des heures, voire des jours.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Konečník
Via "Ptačí bonz" (Bird's Snitch) route to the ledge and directly over the overhang by a… Rock Climbing
6-
Konečník
In the middle of the NE wall by a distinct wide crack (higher up by a narrow chimney) to… Rock Climbing
4-
Lišák
From NE by a crack and a chimney to the balcony. Left by the overgrown wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Korál
In the middle of the NE wall briefly by a chimney and left by the wall to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Korál
Via the "SV stěna" (NE Wall) route by a chimney and further by a crack and again by a… Rock Climbing
4+
Konečník
In the right part of the NE wall by a crack, higher up by the right crack to its end and… Rock Climbing
5+
Konečník
By the crack of "Odevzdání" (Surrender) route, higher up by the left crack and by the… Rock Climbing
5
Konečník
From NE, in the left part of the wall, by an overhanging chimney to a ledge. On the ledge… Rock Climbing
5+
Konečník
From Sandahál by an overhanging chimney and a crack over an overhang. Along the crack to… Rock Climbing
3
Chrám
From SW (right of the crawl-through into the inner space) below the block, by an… Rock Climbing
4-
Chrám
Via "Tajný vchod" (Secret Entrance) route into the chimney, higher up directly by a… Rock Climbing
3
Chrám
From W (from the inner space) by a chimney, higher up left by a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Dionýsos
From the gorge by stemming and a small arête/nose to the right onto the edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Dionýsos
Via "Průzkum" route to the balcony, by a small gully for about two meters and right by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Dionýsos
In the right part of the valley wall by a chimney, a crack over an overhang (ring) into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Dionýsos
From NW (from the Sphinx) in a corner by a chimney to the balcony and an overgrown gully… Rock Climbing
5
Atlantida
In the NE wall, in the right part, by a distinct long corner (dihedral) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Atlantida
The Stezka (Path) route over the ridge into the inner space. To the right an overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Atlantida
From the cave on the right, by a corner crack over two overhangs into a chimney and up it… Rock Climbing
3
Atlantida
To the right in the NE wall, mixed terrain into the inner space. Through a chimney to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Atlantida
In the right part of the NE wall, a double crack, higher up a distinct oblique overhang… Rock Climbing
6
Prostopášnice
From the lower side by building (stacking), a small chimney and a crack into the chimney,… Rock Climbing
7
Šampión
In the N corner via a wide crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Šampión
To the right of route no. 1 via a crack to the window and via route no. 1 to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Prostopášnice
To the right of route no. 2 via cracks and higher up via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Prostopášnice
From the right from path no. 2 via a wide crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Šampión
To the left of route no. 5 via a crack, higher up via the right crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Šampión
Right NE crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Šampión
From the gorge (right of route no. 4) via a slanting crack through a small cave to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Renér
To the right of route no. 1, via the chimney to the pre-summit. Rock Climbing

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