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Grimper à Ostaš

1076 voies
3 domaines
2–10 notes

L'Ostaš est une montagne tabulaire près de Police nad Metují, dans la région de Broumov, avec un labyrinthe rocheux sur son plateau sommital. L'escalade se répartit en trois parties – Labyrinthe inférieur, Labyrinthe supérieur et Zadní Ostaš ; le site de bloc de Bor est tout proche.

L'escalade est traditionnelle sur grès, surtout des murs verticaux avec protections fixes et textiles. Les règles du grès s'appliquent – ni magnésie ni matériel métallique, rocher sec uniquement. L'Ostaš se trouve dans la zone protégée de Broumovsko ; vérifier les restrictions auprès de la fédération tchèque d'alpinisme avant de partir.

Faisant partie de Bohême de l'Est, Ostaš possède 1076 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 10. Explorez ses 3 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Règles

Les règles de la ČHS pour le grès s'appliquent : pas de magnésie, pas de protections métalliques, rocher sec uniquement.

The area lies in the Broumov PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any restrictions.

  • Les règles de la ČHS et des commissions régionales locales s'appliquent.
  • Créer ou tailler des prises est interdit.
  • La magnésie est interdite ou seulement tolérée selon le secteur.
  • Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé – après la pluie ou en hiver, cela peut durer des heures, voire des jours.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Poslední
Right of the N edge, wall to the overgrown balcony. Along the N edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Poslední
From W corner to a small platform and right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Poslední
Ascend the NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Poslední
Directly along the edge over the overhang and further along the edge to the 'hour-glass'… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Poslední
To the right of the SE edge, ascend an overhanging short wall to the edge, then follow… Rock Climbing
4-
Poslední
From the S edge, wall left to the ledge and along it to its end. Wall diagonally right … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Poslední
Ascend the right part of the South wall (from the spruce), but without its help! Straight… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Poslední
Ascend the right part of the South wall (from the spruce), but without its help! Straight… Rock Climbing
4-
Poslední
Follow the West edge and then the wall to a small plateau. Continue via the 'Western'… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Hradba
Follow the 'Crack' route for about 5m, then up the wall left to the 1st ring. Continue up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Hradba
From the second ring of the In Utero route, directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Hradba
To the right of the 'Dragging Feet' route, up the pillar wall (1st ring) to the pillar.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Hradba
The start is in the corner below a prominent overhang. Through the corner and the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Hradba
In the right part of the wall, up the prominent crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
7/7+
Hradba
From forest number 216, up the wall along the oblique crack to the 1st ring. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Hradba
To the left of the steep gully, up the wall to the 1st and 2nd ring. Traverse left on the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Hradba
From the left edge of the wall along the East edge (ring) and up the pillar to the summit… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Hradba
The start is between the 'Spárka' and 'In utero' routes from the lowest point of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
7/7+
Mezistěna
The start is at the right edge of the NE wall. Up the wall along the edge (1st ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Mezistěna
From the East edge, up the wall (ring) and over a small overhang into the ledge. From… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Mezistěna
By way of 'Gumendoš' to the ledge. Traverse left behind the edge and up the wall along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Laid wall
7-/7
Mezistěna
To the left of the start of the 'Gumendoš' route, through the corner to the holes, where… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Borová
From the SE via the corner crack and along the ledge to the right to the ring of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Laid wall
6+/7-
Borová
Up the wall along the North edge (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2+
Borová
From the plateau side via the chimney and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Borová
By way of 'Jiřinčina' to the ring. From the ring, follow the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
4+
Borová
To the right of the East edge, up the wall to the ledge and traverse left along it behind… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger +1
4+
Zelená stěna
Up the prominent corner (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Zelená stěna
In the right part of the wall, up the crack over the widening section to the ring. Left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Spare Route
6
Zelená stěna
Left of the 'Corner' route, up the wall (2 rings) to a small plateau. To the right along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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