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Grimper à Ostaš

1076 voies
3 domaines
2–10 notes

L'Ostaš est une montagne tabulaire près de Police nad Metují, dans la région de Broumov, avec un labyrinthe rocheux sur son plateau sommital. L'escalade se répartit en trois parties – Labyrinthe inférieur, Labyrinthe supérieur et Zadní Ostaš ; le site de bloc de Bor est tout proche.

L'escalade est traditionnelle sur grès, surtout des murs verticaux avec protections fixes et textiles. Les règles du grès s'appliquent – ni magnésie ni matériel métallique, rocher sec uniquement. L'Ostaš se trouve dans la zone protégée de Broumovsko ; vérifier les restrictions auprès de la fédération tchèque d'alpinisme avant de partir.

Faisant partie de Bohême de l'Est, Ostaš possède 1076 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 10. Explorez ses 3 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Règles

Les règles de la ČHS pour le grès s'appliquent : pas de magnésie, pas de protections métalliques, rocher sec uniquement.

The area lies in the Broumov PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any restrictions.

  • Les règles de la ČHS et des commissions régionales locales s'appliquent.
  • Créer ou tailler des prises est interdit.
  • La magnésie est interdite ou seulement tolérée selon le secteur.
  • Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé – après la pluie ou en hiver, cela peut durer des heures, voire des jours.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Bivoj
From the S via steps to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Bivoj
From the SE via a chimney and a corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger
4+
Bivoj
To the left of the corner via a wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger
5+
Bivoj
From the N via a chimney directly to a small ledge. Then via the 'With a Wild Boar on… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Bivoj
Near the N edge via a crack to the 1st bolt. Traverse left into the chimney and up it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Terasa
From the NW via a corner and to the left via an overhanging small crack, higher up via a… Rock Climbing
5
Terasa
In the left part of the wall via a crack (bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Terasa
From the path below the wedged stone via a small corner, a small exposed groove (bolt)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kocour
From the boulder below the E edge via a crack to the balcony and then along the E edge to… Rock Climbing
5+
Terasa
Via the right crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger Spare Route
6
Terasa
In the middle of the wall via a wide crack (bolt) and a twin crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Spare Route
6-
Kocour
From the terrace on the NE side of the tower via a crack in the middle of the wall to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Kocour
In the right part of the NE wall via a slanting crack or corner (or to the right via the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
4-
Kocour
Via stemming between the tower and "Slunečná" to a crack and then up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Kocour
Via a crack in the middle of the NE wall into a hollow. Step across to the right and then… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Spare Route
2+
Kocour
From the fore-peak between the tower and "Slunečná" by stepping over into the SE wall,… Rock Climbing
4-
Slunečná
From the SE via a corner, higher up via a chimney to a pillar and then via the 'Old Route… Rock Climbing
4+
Slunečná
From the plateau side via a crack to a boulder, then along the wall to the right to a… Rock Climbing
5
Kocour
From the end of the gully between the tower and "Slunečná" via stemming to a small ledge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Slunečná
In the plateau face via a crack to the pillar and to the left via a crack or directly (by… Rock Climbing
6
Slunečná
Via the 'NW Edge' to the balcony, then along the wall via a bolt and directly up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Slunečná
From the fore-peak between the tower and "Kocour" via a zigzag crack in the NE wall (bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Spare Route
4-
Slunečná
In the right part of the SE wall via a crack to a small pillar. Then via the 'Křandova'… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Slunečná
From the small pillar below the SE wall via a shallow corner (bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Slunečná
Along the NW edge to the balcony. Via the 'NW edge' route to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger
5
Slunečná
In the left part of the plateau face via a crack to the balcony and to the left along the… Rock Climbing Danger
6-
Vyžle
Through the middle of the valley face via a crack (ring) and to the left via the face to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Vyžle
In the left part of the valley face via a crack (ring) and to the left via the face to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Vyžle
Via the East edge and the face along the edge (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Vyžle
Via a crack, higher up via a chimney in the S edge and via the face to the summit. Rock Climbing

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