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Grimper à Ostaš

1076 voies
3 domaines
2–10 notes

L'Ostaš est une montagne tabulaire près de Police nad Metují, dans la région de Broumov, avec un labyrinthe rocheux sur son plateau sommital. L'escalade se répartit en trois parties – Labyrinthe inférieur, Labyrinthe supérieur et Zadní Ostaš ; le site de bloc de Bor est tout proche.

L'escalade est traditionnelle sur grès, surtout des murs verticaux avec protections fixes et textiles. Les règles du grès s'appliquent – ni magnésie ni matériel métallique, rocher sec uniquement. L'Ostaš se trouve dans la zone protégée de Broumovsko ; vérifier les restrictions auprès de la fédération tchèque d'alpinisme avant de partir.

Faisant partie de Bohême de l'Est, Ostaš possède 1076 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 10. Explorez ses 3 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Règles

Les règles de la ČHS pour le grès s'appliquent : pas de magnésie, pas de protections métalliques, rocher sec uniquement.

The area lies in the Broumov PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any restrictions.

  • Les règles de la ČHS et des commissions régionales locales s'appliquent.
  • Créer ou tailler des prises est interdit.
  • La magnésie est interdite ou seulement tolérée selon le secteur.
  • Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé – après la pluie ou en hiver, cela peut durer des heures, voire des jours.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Vyžle
Via a crack, higher up via a chimney in the S edge and via the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Vyžle
Via the face to the left of the S edge to the small balcony and by stemming to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Vyžle
Via a double crack and a crack in the plateau face to the summit Rock Climbing Spare Route
4+
Obelisk
From the boulder below the NE wall, traverse right along the ledge to the edge towards… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Obelisk
From the SE, via the corner crack and small chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Kiosek
In the middle of the valley wall, through a closed chimney and crack over the overhang to… Rock Climbing
4-
Obelisk
Via the 'Mini-wall' route to the ring. Traverse right along the ledge (across the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Obelisk
From the valley side, via a small corner to a small platform on the N edge. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6-
Obelisk
From the NE, by bridging between the tower and the small pillar to the ring. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
2+
Kiosek
From the upper side (S) through the chimney to the block and by stepping over to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Kiosek
Via the right valley crack (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Laid wall +1
8+/9-
Tři karty
By the wall along the N edge over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Sokol
At the left valley edge, via a corner crack between "Sokolíček" and the tower to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Sokol
The entry is left of 'Hrobař's Route'. By the left part of the valley wall (3 rings) into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sokol
Via the 'White Chimney' route to a small platform. In the right part of the plateau wall,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger +1
5+
Sokol
In the valley wall, via the first crack from the left (ring) to the balcony. On the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Sokol
In the right part of the valley wall, via a crack and by the wall over the overhang to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Sokol
Left of the center of the valley wall, via a double crack and a crack (1st ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sokol
In the center of the valley wall, via a crack (1st ring) to the balcony. Right by the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Sokol
Via the 'Pechr's Chimney' route to "Three Cards" to the holes and in them traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Sokol
Via the 'Eyes on Top of Head' route to the narrow ledge. By the wall to the ring. In the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Sokol
By the valley wall along the N edge to the 1st ring, (aid climbing) over the overhang, in… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Sokol
In the N wall, by the right crack to the ledge, at the level of the 1st ring, in it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
7-/7
Sokol
In the right part of the valley wall, via a small ledge and by the wall left to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Sokol
From the lower (NW) end of the gorge, by stemming to a ledge and along it traverse up to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Sokol
Via the 'White Chimney' route to a small platform. Via the chimney up to the SE tower and… Rock Climbing
6-
Sokol
From the gorge between "Three Cards" and the tower, by the wall to a ledge and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Sokol
From the plateau side, via a chimney or double crack to a small platform. Via the chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Zvoneček
Via the South chimney to the pillar and left by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Zvoneček
From the terrace on the SE side via a corner to the pillar and by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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