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Grimper à Ostaš

1076 voies
3 domaines
2–10 notes

L'Ostaš est une montagne tabulaire près de Police nad Metují, dans la région de Broumov, avec un labyrinthe rocheux sur son plateau sommital. L'escalade se répartit en trois parties – Labyrinthe inférieur, Labyrinthe supérieur et Zadní Ostaš ; le site de bloc de Bor est tout proche.

L'escalade est traditionnelle sur grès, surtout des murs verticaux avec protections fixes et textiles. Les règles du grès s'appliquent – ni magnésie ni matériel métallique, rocher sec uniquement. L'Ostaš se trouve dans la zone protégée de Broumovsko ; vérifier les restrictions auprès de la fédération tchèque d'alpinisme avant de partir.

Faisant partie de Bohême de l'Est, Ostaš possède 1076 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 10. Explorez ses 3 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Règles

Les règles de la ČHS pour le grès s'appliquent : pas de magnésie, pas de protections métalliques, rocher sec uniquement.

The area lies in the Broumov PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any restrictions.

  • Les règles de la ČHS et des commissions régionales locales s'appliquent.
  • Créer ou tailler des prises est interdit.
  • La magnésie est interdite ou seulement tolérée selon le secteur.
  • Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé – après la pluie ou en hiver, cela peut durer des heures, voire des jours.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Křemílek
From the tourist path to the fore-summit and via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Křemílek
The ascent starts in the West wall and then to the South edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Křemílek
From the small cave in the SE wall via a wide crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Spare Route
4+
Vyhlídková
Follow the 'Vandrácká' (Wanderer's) route under the first crack and via that crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vyhlídková
The ascent starts below the SE edge. Along a grassy ledge under the second crack in the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Vyhlídková
In the valley wall, via a crack to the terrace. To the right via a crack over an overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Vyhlídková
Follow the 'Southeastern' route to the terrace and left via a crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Vyhlídková
In the valley wall to the right of the 'Pulse of Life' route, 2 rings to the fore-summit.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Vyhlídková
To the right of the valley crack, up the wall over 2 rings into the recess by the pine… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Vyhlídková
From the plateau side via a crack to the 'clock' (fixed anchor). Traverse left and via a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Vyhlídková
From the NW via a crack and over an overhang (or via a crack and left via a corner crack)… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Vyhlídková
Follow Albert's path to the sloping platform, left behind the North edge and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6
Vyhlídková
From the North edge via a chimney (ring) to the sloping platform. To the right via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Krajní
From the SW via a chimney over overhangs and a crack to the saddle. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Danger
7/7+
Krajní
Follow the 'Rear' path for 5m, traverse left in the holes to the W edge (ring), traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
3
Vyhlídková
From the SE via a corner crack and chimney to the sub-summit plateau. To the right along… Rock Climbing
6-
Krajní
By corner to the adjacent block below the right part of the NE wall. To the right by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Krajní
Through the crack in the middle of the NE wall to the summit ridge, by wall to the middle… Rock Climbing Danger Spare Route
8+/9-
Krajní
To the right of the route 'Rhinoceros', by wall (2 rings) and along the wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Krajní
Through the corner of the route 'From the Boulder' and directly by crack into the saddle.… Rock Climbing Danger
2+
Krajní
From the plateau side, over boulders and steps to the S summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Krajní
Through the left crack in the NE wall (ring) to the summit ridge, by wall to the middle… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall +1
8-/8
Krajní
Through a crack in the SE wall to the 1st ring. By wall to the right into the starting… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Krajní
In the left part of the NE wall, along the 'kyzy' (iron concretions) to the 1st ring. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Kamarádská
Rock Climbing
2+
Kamarádská
From the plateau side along the gentle edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kamarádská
From SE, along the wall along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Tabáková
Up the wall to the right of the small crack (bolt) directly to the balcony and via … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Tabáková
Up the wall to the left of the crack on ledges diagonally left to the hourglass and left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Tabáková
Left of the 'Filterless' route, up the corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing

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