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Grimper à Ostaš

1076 voies
3 domaines
2–10 notes

L'Ostaš est une montagne tabulaire près de Police nad Metují, dans la région de Broumov, avec un labyrinthe rocheux sur son plateau sommital. L'escalade se répartit en trois parties – Labyrinthe inférieur, Labyrinthe supérieur et Zadní Ostaš ; le site de bloc de Bor est tout proche.

L'escalade est traditionnelle sur grès, surtout des murs verticaux avec protections fixes et textiles. Les règles du grès s'appliquent – ni magnésie ni matériel métallique, rocher sec uniquement. L'Ostaš se trouve dans la zone protégée de Broumovsko ; vérifier les restrictions auprès de la fédération tchèque d'alpinisme avant de partir.

Faisant partie de Bohême de l'Est, Ostaš possède 1076 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 10. Explorez ses 3 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Règles

Les règles de la ČHS pour le grès s'appliquent : pas de magnésie, pas de protections métalliques, rocher sec uniquement.

The area lies in the Broumov PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any restrictions.

  • Les règles de la ČHS et des commissions régionales locales s'appliquent.
  • Créer ou tailler des prises est interdit.
  • La magnésie est interdite ou seulement tolérée selon le secteur.
  • Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé – après la pluie ou en hiver, cela peut durer des heures, voire des jours.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Zvoneček
From the valley side, from the end of the passage corridor below "Herodes", via a corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zvoneček
Along the right valley edge, 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Zvoneček
From SW via a chimney between the tower and the block to the block. Left via a crack and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Zvoneček
In the left part of the NE wall (from the gorge) by stemming and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
8-/8
Hladomorna
From the NE, via the right part of the valley wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
3
Hladomorna
Via the crack and chimney in the NE wall to the ridge. Via the 'Sestupová' route to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Hladomorna
Small ledges/features along the W edge (ring) to the small balcony and directly up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hladomorna
From the S, traverse right along the ledge to the E edge, along which (ring) and right up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Hladomorna
Along the SE ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Hladomorna
From the NE, up the wall to the ledge. Via the 'Kolenačky' route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
7+/8-
Herodes
The entry is on the catwalk/ledge below the E edge of the tower. Traverse right and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
8-/8
Herodes
Via the 'Krvavý den' route to the 2nd ring and straight up the wall to the 1st ring of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5+
Herodes
Via the left valley crack to its end, then right up the wall and small cracks to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Herodes
From the passage corridor under the SW wall, through the chimney into the wider chimney … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Herodes
Via the right valley crack (ring) to the sandy terrace. Crawl through the window back… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
Přeskok
Herodes
From the rim, by stepping over onto the sub-summit plateau. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Herodes
In the valley wall, via the middle crack (1st ring) to the 2nd ring. Traverse left along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Herodes
From the boulders below the S edge, via the wide chimney (offwidth) to the ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Herodes
Right part of the SE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Herodes
Via the 'Křandova' route up to the height of the ring, then traverse left along the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Herodes
In the left part of the SE wall, via crack and wall to the ring. Up the wall either left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger
3
Skrček
Ascend from the valley side between "Sluj Českých bratří" (Cave of Czech Brethren) and … Rock Climbing
5
Skrček
The ascent is on the valley side of the passage chimney. Traverse, higher up a crack to… Rock Climbing
4+
Skrček
At the beginning of "Sluj Českých bratří" (Cave of Czech Brethren), via a chimney and up… Rock Climbing
3
Skrček
The ascent starts between "Sluj Českých bratří" (Cave of Czech Brethren) and "Skrček" … Rock Climbing
4+
Skrček
In the left part of the valley wall, via a chimney, higher up via a crack to a small… Rock Climbing
4-
Skrček
Up the SE wall to the sloping platform. Via a corner crack and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Skrček
From the SW by jumping from the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Křemílek
Ascend to the intermediate tower and descend to the South pillar. Climb it to its summit… Rock Climbing
3
Křemílek
From the tourist path to the fore-summit and via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing

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