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Grimper à Ostaš

1076 voies
3 domaines
2–10 notes

L'Ostaš est une montagne tabulaire près de Police nad Metují, dans la région de Broumov, avec un labyrinthe rocheux sur son plateau sommital. L'escalade se répartit en trois parties – Labyrinthe inférieur, Labyrinthe supérieur et Zadní Ostaš ; le site de bloc de Bor est tout proche.

L'escalade est traditionnelle sur grès, surtout des murs verticaux avec protections fixes et textiles. Les règles du grès s'appliquent – ni magnésie ni matériel métallique, rocher sec uniquement. L'Ostaš se trouve dans la zone protégée de Broumovsko ; vérifier les restrictions auprès de la fédération tchèque d'alpinisme avant de partir.

Faisant partie de Bohême de l'Est, Ostaš possède 1076 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 10. Explorez ses 3 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Règles

Les règles de la ČHS pour le grès s'appliquent : pas de magnésie, pas de protections métalliques, rocher sec uniquement.

The area lies in the Broumov PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any restrictions.

  • Les règles de la ČHS et des commissions régionales locales s'appliquent.
  • Créer ou tailler des prises est interdit.
  • La magnésie est interdite ou seulement tolérée selon le secteur.
  • Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé – après la pluie ou en hiver, cela peut durer des heures, voire des jours.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Tabáková
In the left part of the wall along the small crack to the right onto the balcony and up… Rock Climbing
4+
Tabáková
Left of the 'Filterless' route, up the corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Tabáková
Up the wall to the left of the crack on ledges diagonally left to the hourglass and left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Zemovka
Up the SE wall (ring) along the edge (nut) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Zemovka
The start is below the left part of the SW wall. Up the wall along the crack to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Zemovka
From the boulder through the center of the SW wall over 2 rings directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6+/7-
Chán
Between the corner and 'Dunihlavec' straight up the wall to the ledge. Along the edge of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Chán
Left part of the NE wall to the balcony and up the wall to the right of the E edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
7/7+
Chán
Via the 'From Venice to Kublai' route to the balcony. From the balcony, up the… Rock Climbing
4+
Chán
SE wall to the balcony. Via the 'From Venice to Kublai' route to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Chán
Right part of the NE wall to the balcony. Via the 'From Venice to Kublai' route to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Chán
Through the chimney between "Chán" and "Malý Hund" to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
4-
Malý Hund
The entrance is at the end of the corridor with the measuring device. Through the corner… Rock Climbing
3
Žďárská vyhlídka
Along the E edge to the balcony and up the wall along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Žďárská vyhlídka
SE wall (right of the crack) over the overhang to the balcony and via the 'Cesta PP'… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Žďárská vyhlídka
Through an indistinct depression straight to the ring of the 'Cesta US' route and then to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Skleněný zámek
The start is to the left of the 'Beech Princess' route. Left part of the SW wall (3 rings… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Žďárská vyhlídka
Through the crack in the middle of the SE wall to the balcony and in the middle of the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Skleněný zámek
SW wall along the S edge (2 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Žďárská vyhlídka
SE wall left along the crack to the ledge and traverse left in it to the ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Skleněný zámek
Middle of the SE wall (4 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Skleněný zámek
Via the 'Beech Princess' route to the hourglass. From the hourglass straight up the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Skleněný zámek
NE wall left of the large corner to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
7+/8-
Skleněný zámek
SW wall directly to the ring and via the 'Beech Princess' route to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Skleněný zámek
The entrance is below the NE wall behind the tree. Up the dark wall along the E edge to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Skleněný zámek
Left part of the SW wall diagonally right to the ring. Left to the hourglass, wall right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Krtičkova vyhlídka
Up the corner crack in the NW wall to a ring and up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Omalovánka
In the valley wall, up a crack over an overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Spare Route
6-
Verunkožrout
In the right part of the wall, up a crack and chimney to the summit of Verunkožrout. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Stěna mladých pánů
From the W, up a crack to a ledge, traverse right on it, through a falcon-shaped notch… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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