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Grimper à Ostaš

1076 voies
3 domaines
2–10 notes

L'Ostaš est une montagne tabulaire près de Police nad Metují, dans la région de Broumov, avec un labyrinthe rocheux sur son plateau sommital. L'escalade se répartit en trois parties – Labyrinthe inférieur, Labyrinthe supérieur et Zadní Ostaš ; le site de bloc de Bor est tout proche.

L'escalade est traditionnelle sur grès, surtout des murs verticaux avec protections fixes et textiles. Les règles du grès s'appliquent – ni magnésie ni matériel métallique, rocher sec uniquement. L'Ostaš se trouve dans la zone protégée de Broumovsko ; vérifier les restrictions auprès de la fédération tchèque d'alpinisme avant de partir.

Faisant partie de Bohême de l'Est, Ostaš possède 1076 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 10. Explorez ses 3 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Règles

Les règles de la ČHS pour le grès s'appliquent : pas de magnésie, pas de protections métalliques, rocher sec uniquement.

The area lies in the Broumov PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any restrictions.

  • Les règles de la ČHS et des commissions régionales locales s'appliquent.
  • Créer ou tailler des prises est interdit.
  • La magnésie est interdite ou seulement tolérée selon le secteur.
  • Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé – après la pluie ou en hiver, cela peut durer des heures, voire des jours.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7+/8-
Malý Hund
Middle of the wall along the crack and up the wall to the 1st ring. Up the wall left and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Malý Hund
Via the 'Steeplechase' route to the 1st ring. Up the wall diagonally left to the 1st ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
7-/7
Malý Hund
Right part of the wall (1 bolt and 2 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
7-/7
Malý Hund
Left part of the wall (2 rings) and along the small crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Žďárská vyhlídka
SW wall along the S edge (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Žďárská vyhlídka
Left part of the SW wall directly over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7-/7
Žďárská vyhlídka
Middle of the SW wall (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4-
Žďárská vyhlídka
Through the corner between "Žďárská vyhlídka" and "Malý Hund" to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Skleněný zámek
Middle of the SE wall of the lower block over the ring to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Skleněný zámek
Through a narrow chimney to the left of the 'Oak King' route between wedged boulders to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6
Strakatá
Middle of the slabby western wall (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Strakatá
Wall (bolt) to the pedestal and by it to the Ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Cikánka
From the boulder on the plateau side (building up) and via the face (ring) to the crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5+
Cikánka
From the plateau side left to a small platform to the ring. Step left behind the edge. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Cikánka
From the boulder in the middle of the SW face traverse right (1st ring) to the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Cikánka
In the E corner, up the corner crack to the plateau and via the Bambusácká variant to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Cikánka
Via Prolhaná route to the ring. From the ring traverse the face left into the crack of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Cikánka
Along the right plateau edge (1st ring) to the right to the 2nd ring and right via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6-
Cikánka
From the NW flank of the tower via the corner to the plateau terrace and to the left of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
8/8+
Cikánka
In the left part of the valley face via 6 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Cikánka
Up the right part of the NE wall to a crack and through it over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Cikánka
From the boulder below the S edge into the NE face and along the edge via 2 rings, higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5+
Cikánka
The start is at the right edge of the SW wall below a boulder. Up the wall and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Cikánka
Via Polická route to the ring. From the ring directly into the crack via the face. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7
Cikán
Center of the SW wall. Rock Climbing
6-
Cikánka
Via the Hronovská route to the small platform, along the E edge to the level of the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Cikán
To the left of the E edge to a ring. From the ring to the right onto the edge and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Cikánka
In the valley NE wall, up a small crack to the 1st ring and up the wall past 2 rings to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
9-
Cikán
Wall to the left of the S edge. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Cikán
Wall along the S edge. Rock Climbing

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