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Grimper à Ostaš

1076 voies
3 domaines
2–10 notes

L'Ostaš est une montagne tabulaire près de Police nad Metují, dans la région de Broumov, avec un labyrinthe rocheux sur son plateau sommital. L'escalade se répartit en trois parties – Labyrinthe inférieur, Labyrinthe supérieur et Zadní Ostaš ; le site de bloc de Bor est tout proche.

L'escalade est traditionnelle sur grès, surtout des murs verticaux avec protections fixes et textiles. Les règles du grès s'appliquent – ni magnésie ni matériel métallique, rocher sec uniquement. L'Ostaš se trouve dans la zone protégée de Broumovsko ; vérifier les restrictions auprès de la fédération tchèque d'alpinisme avant de partir.

Faisant partie de Bohême de l'Est, Ostaš possède 1076 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 10. Explorez ses 3 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Règles

Les règles de la ČHS pour le grès s'appliquent : pas de magnésie, pas de protections métalliques, rocher sec uniquement.

The area lies in the Broumov PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any restrictions.

  • Les règles de la ČHS et des commissions régionales locales s'appliquent.
  • Créer ou tailler des prises est interdit.
  • La magnésie est interdite ou seulement tolérée selon le secteur.
  • Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé – après la pluie ou en hiver, cela peut durer des heures, voire des jours.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Cikán
To the left of the E edge to a ring, from the ring left onto the edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Cikán
Wall along the S edge. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Cikán
Between ZEDNICKA (Mason's) and KE SLAŇAKU (To the Rappel Point). Rock Climbing
6-
Cikán
SW wall near the S edge. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Soudeček
Up the overhanging NE wall past 2 rings and to the right of the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
6-
Třešnička
From the NE, via an airy chimney to the plateau. Up the wall and edge (3 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Jirkovy věže
Via the corner crack in the valley wall to the 1st ring. Traverse the wall left behind… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
6+/7-
Harpagon
Through the middle of the northeast face to the 1st ring. Along the wall slightly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Píšťaly
In the left part of the west face of the left pillar, a crack to the 1st bolt. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Plotna
From the recess in the middle of the wall, via a double crack and higher via a crack to… Rock Climbing Spare Route
6+/7-
Plotna
Along the wall along the southern edge (4 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Plotna
In the left part of the west face (to the left of the route “School of Loops”) along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Plotna
From the niche in the middle of the wall, via the right crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
8/8+
Signum laudis
Approach 3m through the 'Ledvin Stones' route's corner and left to the 1st stainless… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8
Plotna
SW wall (on the slope) 2bh to the third ring of the route 'Vysoko nad věcí'. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Signum laudis
Approach via the "Cesta do neznáma" (Road to the Unknown) route (2 rings) and left along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Kout
In the right part of the north wall along the edge (3 bolts) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Flora
Through the western corner to the pillar and a crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Kout
Follow the route "Křídlo" (Wing) to the 2nd bolt and then right along the wall to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5+
Flora
Via 'Sokolík' to the pillar and along the 'Vegetable' route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Kout
The approach is to the left of the route "Necky". Along the West wall next to a sharp… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7/7+
Kout
The approach is the same as the route "Necky". After 6 meters, turn left to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Kout
Left crack in the recess to the top. Rock Climbing Spare Route
7-/7
Meteorologická
At the left edge of the NW face, up the chimney-crack behind a detached block of unusual… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Meteorologická
To the left of the "Triangle" chimney via the edge and corner to the 1st ring, up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Kůrovec
From the west up the face and edge (bolt) to the shelf. Higher into the north face, which… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Orchestr
Along the edge (left of Saxophone) via 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7+/8-
Orchestr
Via the pedestal/pinnacle and face (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
9/9+
Orchestr
In the valley face (left of Xylophone) up the face via 2 rings to the ledge and from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6
Orchestr
To the left of the "Telephone" route, up the corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing

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