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Grimper à Velká plošina Stěn - Božanovský špičák

45 voies
17 domaines
2–7/7+ notes

Le Božanovský Špičák (773 m) est le point culminant des parois de Broumov ; ce secteur de la Velká plošina Stěn compte environ 45 voies sur 17 tours – par exemple Falešná sedma, Špičák (Koníček), Mamut, Mimčo, Buldog et Vůjtova věž. L'escalade est traditionnelle avec protections textiles et anneaux ; du 2 au 7/7+.

Faisant partie de Parois de Broumov, Velká plošina Stěn - Božanovský špičák possède 45 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 7/7+. Explorez ses 17 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Règles

- Do not damage nature - do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks and in their surroundings, do not remove stones, wood, soil, etc. from terraces and the surface of the rocks - Use only tourist routes and access paths marked in the permit attachment for access - Do not disturb nesting birds and inform the PLA administration if nesting is detected - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight, in shoes that do not damage the surface of the rocks - Do not use magnesium - Prohibition of damaging or modifying the surface of the rocks (inappropriate handling of the rope, chopping holds, steps) - Prohibition of using belay devices that damage the rock (wedges, friends) - First ascents and installation of fixed belays only with the prior consent of the PLA administration The permit does not apply to bouldering.

Seasonal climbing ban from 1 January to 30 June. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Escalade uniquement sur les rochers désignés – les rochers fermés sont signalés par des panneaux d'interdiction.
  • Les règles de la ČHS pour le grès s'appliquent (pas de magnésie, pas de protections métalliques, rocher sec uniquement).
  • Camping uniquement dans les campings.

National nature reserve. On the designated rocks climbing is mostly allowed from 1 July to 31 December. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Les règles de la ČHS et des commissions régionales locales s'appliquent.
  • Créer ou tailler des prises est interdit.
  • La magnésie est interdite ou seulement tolérée selon le secteur.
  • Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé – après la pluie ou en hiver, cela peut durer des heures, voire des jours.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Kamarád
Rock Climbing
5
Kamarád
Rock Climbing
2
Těžítko
From the North up the wall to the block, over the overhang past the chimney and up the… Rock Climbing
3
Orel
From the NW from the edge by stepping over to the balcony, traverse left along the ledge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Mamut
From the East up the wall over the points and by passage to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Mamut
Up the SW crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Mamut
Up the West chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Mamut
At the right valley edge up the wall (ring) to the ledge. In it traverse left (around the… Rock Climbing
2
Mamut
Up the chimney and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Pravěká
From the southeastern fore-summit up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ještěr
From NW via a crack and a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Ještěr
From the SE ridge up the steps to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Veverka
From E via a chimney and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Falešná sedma
Up the NW small chimney and right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Palčák
From the southwest up the slabby wall into a narrow chimney, through it to the balcony,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Falešná sedma
Through any of the passages into the rock formation below the jammed boulder to the start… Rock Climbing
4
Falešná sedma
From the East via the broken/jagged crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Palčák
From the south up the steps to the NE pillar, overhanging into the wall and with a mantle… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Falešná sedma
Rock Climbing
3
Falešná sedma
Up the SE chimney and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Falešná sedma
Up the West small chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Falešná sedma
From the South up the chimney to the block and by step-over to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Falešná sedma
Up the North crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Kratochvíle
Rock Climbing
5
Mimčo
Rock Climbing
4
Mimčo
From the SW edge traverse right to the SE edge and along it to the small platform.… Rock Climbing
4
Kratochvíle
Up the SW wall to the saddle and right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Mimčo
Rock Climbing
4
Mimčo
Up the East wall (below the abseil point) to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Pravěká
In the left part of the SW wall at the edge (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1

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