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Grimper à Velká plošina Stěn - Božanovský špičák

45 voies
17 domaines
2–7/7+ notes

Le Božanovský Špičák (773 m) est le point culminant des parois de Broumov ; ce secteur de la Velká plošina Stěn compte environ 45 voies sur 17 tours – par exemple Falešná sedma, Špičák (Koníček), Mamut, Mimčo, Buldog et Vůjtova věž. L'escalade est traditionnelle avec protections textiles et anneaux ; du 2 au 7/7+.

Faisant partie de Parois de Broumov, Velká plošina Stěn - Božanovský špičák possède 45 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 7/7+. Explorez ses 17 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Règles

- Do not damage nature - do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks and in their surroundings, do not remove stones, wood, soil, etc. from terraces and the surface of the rocks - Use only tourist routes and access paths marked in the permit attachment for access - Do not disturb nesting birds and inform the PLA administration if nesting is detected - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight, in shoes that do not damage the surface of the rocks - Do not use magnesium - Prohibition of damaging or modifying the surface of the rocks (inappropriate handling of the rope, chopping holds, steps) - Prohibition of using belay devices that damage the rock (wedges, friends) - First ascents and installation of fixed belays only with the prior consent of the PLA administration The permit does not apply to bouldering.

Seasonal climbing ban from 1 January to 30 June. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Escalade uniquement sur les rochers désignés – les rochers fermés sont signalés par des panneaux d'interdiction.
  • Les règles de la ČHS pour le grès s'appliquent (pas de magnésie, pas de protections métalliques, rocher sec uniquement).
  • Camping uniquement dans les campings.

National nature reserve. On the designated rocks climbing is mostly allowed from 1 July to 31 December. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Les règles de la ČHS et des commissions régionales locales s'appliquent.
  • Créer ou tailler des prises est interdit.
  • La magnésie est interdite ou seulement tolérée selon le secteur.
  • Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé – après la pluie ou en hiver, cela peut durer des heures, voire des jours.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Vesmírná odysea
In the left part of the eastern wall via a crack and the wall left to a small platform… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
2
Vůjtova věž
From NE from the edges by stepping over into the structured wall and up that to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vůjtova věž
Left of the western ridge, via a chimney between the tower and the massif up to the large… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Lhotská
From the south up the wall to the pillar and along the eastern ridge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Lhotská
From W up the wall to the gully, through which to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Buldog
From E up the wall to the N ridge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Páteční věž
Rock Climbing
4
Buldog
From N to a small platform, by building (up) and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Špičák (Koníček)
From the 1st ring of route no. 2, traverse left under the overhang in route no. 3 and up… Rock Climbing
5
Špičák (Koníček)
Via route no. 1 to the platform. Traverse right diagonally upwards to the W ridge and via… Rock Climbing
5+
Špičák (Koníček)
Along the E ridge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Špičák (Koníček)
Along the edge directly to the 1st ring. Rock Climbing
5+
Špičák (Koníček)
In the valley wall via a bent crack to the 1st ring. Along the ledge right, above the… Rock Climbing
5+
Špičák (Koníček)
From the plateau side, up the S wall left into a gully and up the wall right to a… Rock Climbing
6+
Špičák (Koníček)
From NE via a bent crack (ring). Traverse through a notch right to the edge and via a… Rock Climbing

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