After a multi-year battle and over 100 sessions in the desert, American climber Nathan Williams has joined the elite club of V17 climbers. Williams successfully topped Return of the Sleepwalker (9A/V17) in Red Rock, Nevada, marking the completion of his long-term nemesis and his hardest ascent to date.

The Quick Stats:
  • Climber: Nathan Williams (USA)
  • Route: Return of the Sleepwalker (ROTSW)
  • Grade: 9A (V17)
  • Location: Red Rock Canyon, Nevada
  • Date of Send: February 1, 2026
  • Previous Hardest Send: Creature from the Black Lagoon (V16)

A Commitment to Style

What makes Williams' ascent particularly compelling is his strict adherence to the "original" challenge. While newer beta involving a kneebar and different foot sequences has been discovered since Daniel Woods' first ascent—beta that many argue softens the grade—Williams deliberately chose the harder path.

He opted for the original "shoulder beta," eschewing the easier modern method. According to Williams, the newer beta felt "wrong" and "tweaky" on his wrist, and ultimately, it wasn't the challenge he had signed up for.

"The epic battle is over, I just didn't want the boulder to win. [...] While more physically difficult, the original beta was a more enjoyable experience for me and was exactly the challenge I had dedicated myself to."
— Nathan Williams (via Instagram)

From Stand to Sit

Williams is no stranger to the Black Velvet Canyon test piece. He sent the stand start version, Sleepwalker (V16/8C+), back in December 2020. However, the sit start—which adds a brutal 7-move intro into the V16 stand—proved to be a different beast entirely.

He began projecting the full line in 2022. It required immense patience, resulting in over 100 sessions of effort. This ascent makes him the latest in a growing list of climbers to tame the line, which has now become the most repeated V17 in the world with 8 total ascents.


In an era where "beta breaking" is common to find the path of least resistance, Williams' ascent is a nod to climbing heritage. By forcing himself to climb the line in the style he found most inspiring—even if it was harder—he prioritized the quality of the experience over the speed of the send. This ascent cements his place among the world's strongest boulderers.