Gianluca Vighetti wraps up a stellar 2025 season by ticking two Italian test pieces: "Lapsus" and "Niobe".

If you needed proof that the next generation of Italian climbing has arrived, look no further than Gianluca Vighetti. The 17-year-old prodigy from the Susa Valley has capped off his year with a stunning double-header, taking down his first 9a+ and following it up with a lightning-fast repeat of a brand new 9a.

Lapsus (9a+): The King of Andonno

In late November, Vighetti returned to the historic crag of Andonno to settle a score. His target was Lapsus, the legendary connection line first freed by Stefano Ghisolfi in 2015.

Route Stats: Lapsus

  • Grade: 9a+ (5.15a)
  • Location: Andonno, Italy
  • First Ascent: Stefano Ghisolfi (2015)
  • The Line: A massive link-up connecting Noia (8c+) into Anaconda (8c).

Lapsus is a stamina monster that links Italy’s first 8c+ into an 8c finish. While originally proposed as 9b, the grade has settled at hard 9a+ after repeats by Adam Ondra, Marcello Bombardi, and Jonathan Siegrist.

Vighetti, who had climbed the first section (Noia) three years ago, needed just eight sessions this season to piece the full link-up together. Battling freezing 0°C conditions, he clipped the chains to claim his hardest ascent to date.

Niobe (9a): A Flash of Brilliance in Arco

Just weeks after his battle in Andonno, Vighetti shifted gears to Arco. He set his sights on Niobe, a technical slab masterpiece at Passo Due Sassi that had been established by Adam Ondra only days prior.

The contrast in style between the steep endurance of Andonno and the technical precision of Arco didn't seem to faze him. In a remarkable display of versatility, Vighetti managed the first repeat of the route in a single day.

"I unlocked all the moves on my first attempt, almost sent on my second go... and then sent it on my last try when there was almost no light left."

While Vighetti hinted that the route might be "soft" for the 9a grade, his speed on such a complex, technical line—fresh off a power-endurance project—speaks volumes about his current form.

What's Next?

With a European Youth Cup gold medal in his pocket and his first 9a+ ticked, Gianluca Vighetti is entering 2026 as one of the most exciting young climbers to watch. The transition from child prodigy (he climbed 9a at age 12) to elite adult crusher is officially complete.