Big congratulations are in order this week in the climbing world! We are thrilled to report that French climber Laura Pineau has successfully clipped the chains on a major project, securing the First Female Ascent (FFA) of the daunting route, "Wet Lycra Nightmare."

Clocking in at a stout 8b (5.13d), this ascent isn't just another tick in a guidebook—it is a significant athletic achievement on one of the steepest walls in North America.

The "Nightmare" on Leaning Tower

With a name like "Wet Lycra Nightmare," you know a route isn’t going to give up its anchors easily. Located on the Leaning Tower in Yosemite National Park, USA, this 9-pitch route is infamous for its sustained overhang and relentless difficulty.

The line was originally an aid route freed by the legendary Todd Skinner and Jim Hewett in 2004. Since then, it has seen very few repeats, with notable ascents by climbers like Alex Honnold (who made the second ascent in 2015) and Jordan Cannon.

The route is a true granite testpiece, featuring:

  • The Crux: A violent V9 boulder problem mid-route that guards the send.
  • Unique Movement: Technical slabs, unforgiving cracks, and a cult-classic "chicken wing" move suspended 600 meters off the deck.
  • Exposure: The Leaning Tower is often cited as the steepest big wall in the US, meaning you are hanging in essentially empty space for much of the climb.

The Ascent

Laura Pineau’s success on this route is even more impressive given her lead-up to the trip. In July, she suffered a bike accident that injured her shoulder, leaving her unable to train properly for two months.

Despite arriving in the Valley with "little strength," she relied on massive motivation. She worked the route for six weeks (totaling 17 days on the wall), battling the crux pitch which took her 15 attempts to unlock.

She capped off the effort with a 3-day push in late November 2025.

"It was exactly what I was looking for: a complete challenge on granite, technical, physical, mental, and symbolically powerful." — Laura Pineau

Pushing the Standards

Claiming an FFA on a route with such a storied history adds another layer to the accomplishment. By ticking "Wet Lycra Nightmare," Pineau has not only overcome personal injury but has also cemented her place among the elite big-wall free climbers of her generation.

Massive congratulations to Laura Pineau on this fantastic send. We can’t wait to see what she crushes next!