If you are looking for Yosemite-style splitter cracks in the heart of Europe, look no further than Val Bavona in Ticino, Switzerland. The route Butterfly Circus has recently captured the attention of the world’s elite trad climbers, cementing its reputation as one of the continent's absolute best granite test pieces.
Recent footage has surfaced of French climber Laura Pineau making an impressive repeat of this 8a+ (5.13d) line, following a wave of ascents by climbing royalty including Barbara Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher, and Pete Whittaker.
The Route: Butterfly Circus
Established in 2022 by the Swiss crack specialist Fred Moix, Butterfly Circus is a 25-meter pure splitter crack that demands everything from perfect hand jams to powerful laybacking. Unlike many European "trad" routes that wander or rely on face holds, this line is relentless, following a single, aesthetic fissure through smooth granite.
Route Stats
- Name: Butterfly Circus
- Location: Val Bavona, Ticino, Switzerland
- Grade: 8a+ / 8b (approx. 5.13d)
- First Ascent: Fred Moix (2022)
- Style: Pure Granite Splitter Crack / Trad
While the route remained somewhat under the radar initially, the last two years have seen a flurry of activity. Pete Whittaker, one half of the famous Wide Boyz, claimed the third ascent in April 2024, noting that he fell high on his onsight attempt before sending it shortly after.
The route saw a particularly busy week in June 2024. Barbara "Babsi" Zangerl claimed the First Female Ascent (FFA), calling it "probably the best crack in Ticino." Just two days later, Laura Pineau secured the Second Female Ascent. Her raw, uncut footage of the climb—recently released—showcases the intense physical struggle of the route, highlighting the painful and insecure nature of high-end granite laybacking.
"An incredible and long splitter crack, smooth granite, sore hands... it sounds like Yosemite, but no, it was Switzerland."
Europe is famous for its limestone sport climbing, but world-class pure crack climbs are rare gems. Butterfly Circus fills that void, offering a line that would fit perfectly on El Capitan. The consolidation of the grade at 8a+ (with some suggesting soft 8b) makes it a significantly difficult objective that requires specific crack climbing proficiency rather than just raw finger strength.
