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Climbing at 02. Suchá Kamenice

242 routes
34 areas
2–10 grades

Suchá Kamenice on the right bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 240 routes on 35 towers and walls – the largest include Severní terasa, Věž Suché Kamenice, Mlynářská stěna, Rohová věž, Toreador and Houbařský kámen. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 2 to 10.

Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 02. Suchá Kamenice has 242 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 10. Explore its 34 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from February 1st to June 30th. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Climb in daylight only.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • Jumps between towers are not allowed.
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.86323, 14.22807

Google Waze
Severní terasa 35 routes Věž Suché Kamenice 20 routes Mlynářská stěna 17 routes Rohová věž 14 routes Toreador 14 routes Houbařský kámen 12 routes Stromová věž 10 routes Lesní duch 10 routes Patolízal 8 routes Kamenický přízrak 8 routes Samotář 7 routes Severní záře 6 routes Zelený panelák 6 routes Šašek 6 routes Růžek 6 routes Lesní věž 5 routes Klamná kráska 5 routes Samotářská stěna 5 routes Mlynářská výspa 5 routes Principál 5 routes Indiánská vesnice 5 routes Hlava pomazaná 4 routes Lesní hrot 4 routes Pařát 4 routes Deset plus 3 routes Pouštní růže 3 routes Smutný oči 3 routes La pláž 3 routes Jeskyňář 2 routes Mys Kamenice 2 routes Sváteční stěna 2 routes Pašerák 1 route Hanoj 1 route Slunovrat 1 route
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
8-/8
Severní záře
In the right part of the massif, up the wall (9 bolts) to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Severní záře
Left in the chimney between the massifs, by crack directly to the rappel of the Human… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Severní záře
Start in the corner left of the route “Distant Light” to the balcony and further left in… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Severní terasa
From the fore-summit jump to the main summit. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Severní záře
In the chimney between the massifs from the balcony by overhanging edge directly (3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4-
Severní terasa
Left of the “Old Way” by crack to the fore-summit and by the “Old Way” to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Severní terasa
On the E side from the edge of the massif traverse right into the crack, up it to the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Severní terasa
Subsector Suchá Kamenice. From the fore-summit jump to the main summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Severní terasa
Left of “Plateau Edge” by crack to the fore-summit and over the crevice to the main… Rock Climbing
2+
Severní terasa
Along the Plateau Edge to the fore-summit and by the “Old Way” to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Severní terasa
From the gully by the left crack to the fore-summit and by the “Old Way” to the summit. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Severní terasa
From the gully, diagonally left up the wall to the bolt (bh) and into the holes (hour… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
9/9+
Severní terasa
Right of “Crankshaft” by crack to the seam and to 1st K of “Crankshaft”. Up the wall over… Rock Climbing
5+
Severní terasa
Between “Middle Plateau Crack” and “Left Plateau Crack” along a fine crack to the fore… Rock Climbing
6
Severní terasa
In the left part of the S wall by crack into the cave, under the overhang traverse right… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Severní terasa
In the S wall briefly by the corner and left dynamically under 1st K, up the wall to 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Severní terasa
Like “Crankshaft” into the cave, by crack over the overhang (K) to the ledge (right of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
10-/10
Severní terasa
In the South wall left of the Naked Misfortune route up the wall via 1 and 2 BHs, from… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Severní terasa
In the S wall left by the crack further left by the wall (2K) into the crack and further… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Severní terasa
In the West wall, left of Monsoon, along the crack to the 1st BH. Left to the 2nd BH.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8+/9-
Severní terasa
In the left part of the West wall via 4 BHs, left into the crack of the North Edge route… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Severní terasa
From the 2nd BH of the Monkey Cage route, from the left up the wall into the ledge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8+/9-
Severní terasa
Along the valley edge via 5 BHs and the 5th K of the Naked Misfortune route to the ledge.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
2
Severní terasa
In the West wall from the large balcony (photo) Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Severní terasa
Left in the West wall via a crack (2BH) to the overgrown terrace and left of the NW edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Severní terasa
As "Northern Crack" just below the overgrown terrace. North edge diagonally right over K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Severní terasa
Start from the terrace in the North wall. From the start of the "Northern Crack" up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Severní terasa
As "Northern Crack" to the terrace in the North wall and from its left edge via a double… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Severní terasa
Left of the Northern Crack route via the rib and right up the wall with a crack via 7 BHs… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Severní terasa
From the 1st BH of the "Terrace Slab" route, left up the wall via 6 BHs to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3

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