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Climbing at 02. Suchá Kamenice

242 routes
34 areas
2–10 grades

Suchá Kamenice on the right bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 240 routes on 35 towers and walls – the largest include Severní terasa, Věž Suché Kamenice, Mlynářská stěna, Rohová věž, Toreador and Houbařský kámen. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 2 to 10.

Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 02. Suchá Kamenice has 242 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 10. Explore its 34 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from February 1st to June 30th. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Climb in daylight only.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • Jumps between towers are not allowed.
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.86323, 14.22807

2
Věž Suché Kamenice
Most likely the work of Jörg Andreas. Right of the "Periferie" route (4BH) (see photo red… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Věž Suché Kamenice
From the valley side via a crack to the platform and left to the balcony to K. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
10-/10
Věž Suché Kamenice
In the left part of the S wall (3BH) to the stand. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Věž Suché Kamenice
From 1. K of the "Bat" route right into the notch to 2. K. Traverse right across the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Věž Suché Kamenice
Via the crack of the Forced Labour route (loop) and left to 1. BH. From the left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Věž Suché Kamenice
Left of "Bat" via a crack over 2 K and a roof-like overhang to 3. K. Diagonally right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8-/8
Věž Suché Kamenice
In the E wall from the right edge via a crack (1. K) diagonally left below the roof-like… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4-
Lesní duch
In the middle of the east wall, from a block with aid climbing and then the wall to the… Rock Climbing
6
Lesní duch
Left of the "Old Route" via the wall to an sloping ledge, then left to the edge and along… Rock Climbing
6-
Lesní duch
Through the center of the south wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Lesní duch
About 2m right of the "Northeast Ridge" through holes to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Lesní duch
Along the plateau edge. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Lesní duch
Through the center of the east face between the Kobercova and Lavor routes from finger… Rock Climbing
4+
Lesní duch
2m left of the "Northeast Ridge" via a short wall to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Lesní duch
2m right of the "Raspberry Route" up the blunt edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Lesní duch
Left in the east wall via the corner and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Lesní duch
From the west by chimney and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Mlynářská stěna
Briefly via the "Pacifik" route and diagonally right to a ledge to the 1st BH. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Mlynářská stěna
From the overgrown balcony at the top on the SE side, from the beginning of the crack,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
8+/9-
Mlynářská stěna
To the right of the "Krása nesmírná" (Immense Beauty) route, along the edge over 5 BH to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8/8+
Mlynářská stěna
In the right part of the E wall via a crack and fissures over 6 BH and 2 K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Mlynářská stěna
Briefly through the "Krásy nesmírné" (Immense Beauty) crack and left to the 1st BH. Up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Mlynářská stěna
Through the corner crack and a small pillar in the center of the valley wall to the 1st K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Mlynářská stěna
Up a corner and crack via K into a gully (rappel). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Mlynářská stěna
Right of the Central Crack up the wall via 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-/10
Mlynářská stěna
From the Beggar's Banquet route, by the overhanging curved edge over 2 BH to the 2nd K of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Mlynářská stěna
Via Mládkovy Route under the overhang above 2nd K. Left into a chimney, by this under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8/8+
Mlynářská stěna
Like Mládkovy Route via a corner (BH) to the balcony. Left crack over 2 BH to the end … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7+/8-
Mlynářská stěna
As "Wet Cellar" to the ring of "Mládkovy Route" and right up the wall (3 BH) to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Mlynářská stěna
In the SW face via a corner to a pine tree, here 3m left, via a crack and chimney to 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2

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