Suchá Kamenice on the right bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 240 routes on 35 towers and walls – the largest include Severní terasa, Věž Suché Kamenice, Mlynářská stěna, Rohová věž, Toreador and Houbařský kámen. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 2 to 10.
Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 02. Suchá Kamenice has 242 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 10. Explore its 34 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.
Rules
- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021
Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from February 1st to June 30th. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park
- Climb in daylight only.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- Jumps between towers are not allowed.
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Severní terasa Věž Suché Kamenice Mlynářská stěna Rohová věž Toreador Houbařský kámen Stromová věž Lesní duch Patolízal Kamenický přízrak Samotář Severní záře Zelený panelák Šašek Růžek Lesní věž Klamná kráska Samotářská stěna Mlynářská výspa Principál Indiánská vesnice Hlava pomazaná Lesní hrot Pařát Deset plus Pouštní růže Smutný oči La pláž Jeskyňář Mys Kamenice Sváteční stěna Pašerák Hanoj Slunovrat
5+
Severní spára
From the SW edge traverse along the band to the terrace in the North wall, directly up… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Vosí štípanec
From the 1st ring of Gulliver's Route, traverse right to the edge and along it via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Obří plotna
Left of the "Northern Chimney" route from the right over an overhang and through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Obří kout
Along the left valley (S) edge via K and right (2nd K) into a large corner. Through this … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Nord Stream
Left below the valley chimney (belay with BH) via a crack and wall over 6 BHs to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Gulliverovy cesty
Via the 1st K of "Giant's Corner" and directly through the crack (4K) to the balcony (6th… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Indien creek - výlezová varianta
From the 4th K to the ledge and right to the 5th K. Diagonally right through the notch to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Indien creek
Completely on the left in the East wall, via a corner over 4 K to a ledge, further left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Jack Kerouac
Through the middle of the East wall via 4 BHs to the 5th BH. From there, a horizontal… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4+
Stará cesta
From the rock block on the upper side, traverse right to the SE edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Východní cesta
From the balcony on the east side, right over the overhang and up the wall to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Horký den
From the start of the Old Route, up the middle of the wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Náhorní cesta
In the upper wall, by placing at K. Up the wall and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8-/8
Na vodě v pohodě
To the left in the upper wall, from the ledge up the wall over 2K, higher up slightly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
La putyka
Left upper overhanging edge over BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Šílení architekti
To the right of the Death Metal route, along the ribs, later up the wall over 6 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Tradice v novém
From left or right to the balcony. Through the crack and along the edge over BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Parkur
In the right part of the valley wall along the ribs 5 BH, left into the corner and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
TnT
In the right part of the wall, through a prominent corner (2 BH) to the balcony, through… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Žilbyl
From the left part of the valley wall, slightly right over 2 BH. From the left to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Semtex
To the right in the valley wall from the pre-rock face over 2 BH to the 4th BH of the TnT… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Zapomenuté světlo
From the left valley edge, right into the wall and up it over 3 BH and 3 overhangs,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8-/8
Útěk do divočiny
Along the left valley edge directly over 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4-
Severovýchodní hrana
Up the E wall a short traverse right to the NE edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Údolní spára
From the ramp in the valley wall via a crack (K) to a large platform and via the "Old… Rock Climbing
5
Cesta středem
Short traverse right into the middle of the E wall, up the wall to a large platform and… Rock Climbing
4-
Stará cesta
Up the S wall to the ledge, traverse right and up the wall or edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Pro mě za mě
Along the Z edge below the summit head, traverse left and via the "Old Route" to the… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Brutal assault
Through the middle of the valley S wall (2BH) to the stand. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow