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Climbing at 02. Suchá Kamenice

242 routes
34 areas
2–10 grades

Suchá Kamenice on the right bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 240 routes on 35 towers and walls – the largest include Severní terasa, Věž Suché Kamenice, Mlynářská stěna, Rohová věž, Toreador and Houbařský kámen. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 2 to 10.

Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 02. Suchá Kamenice has 242 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 10. Explore its 34 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from February 1st to June 30th. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Climb in daylight only.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • Jumps between towers are not allowed.
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.86323, 14.22807

Google Waze
Severní terasa 35 routes Věž Suché Kamenice 20 routes Mlynářská stěna 17 routes Rohová věž 14 routes Toreador 14 routes Houbařský kámen 12 routes Stromová věž 10 routes Lesní duch 10 routes Patolízal 8 routes Kamenický přízrak 8 routes Samotář 7 routes Severní záře 6 routes Zelený panelák 6 routes Šašek 6 routes Růžek 6 routes Lesní věž 5 routes Klamná kráska 5 routes Samotářská stěna 5 routes Mlynářská výspa 5 routes Principál 5 routes Indiánská vesnice 5 routes Hlava pomazaná 4 routes Lesní hrot 4 routes Pařát 4 routes Deset plus 3 routes Pouštní růže 3 routes Smutný oči 3 routes La pláž 3 routes Jeskyňář 2 routes Mys Kamenice 2 routes Sváteční stěna 2 routes Pašerák 1 route Hanoj 1 route Slunovrat 1 route
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
5+
Pouštní růže
Middle of the massif via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Deset plus
Left of the prominent crack diagonally left through the face (2BH) to the rappel Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Smutný oči
Middle of the N face via a small dihedral/pillar and slightly left through the face 2 BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Pašerák
In the north face (3BH) to the rappel Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
10-/10
Deset plus
In the left part of the face (BH) to the rappel of the Mordovina route Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Jeskyňář
South face (BH) from the left over the overhang and via the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Deset plus
In the right part of the face via a prominent crack to the rappel of the Mordovina route Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Severní záře
Right into the “Distant Light” route by sharp edge over 5 bolts to the rappel station of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Severní záře
In the NW wall, at the exit of “Lehm's Cave”, by finger, later hand crack in a prominent… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Spare Route
9/9+
Hlava pomazaná
Along the right valley edge via two BHs to the third, from the right to the fourth, and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Hlava pomazaná
Up the wall and edge directly via three BHs to the fourth. Straight and right with the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Hlava pomazaná
In the left part of the massif, up the wall and edge via 3 BHs to the rappel BH (under… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Hlava pomazaná
Through the middle of the valley wall directly via two BHs into the crack higher up,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Sváteční stěna
Along the hand crack over 4 K to the end and then up the small wall 5 K to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Samotářská stěna
Up the pillar to the left of the Crossroads, through the gully over BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
10-/10
Samotářská stěna
To the right of the Crossroads, up the chimney to the balcony. Along the edge over BH to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Samotářská stěna
Through the notch and higher up the gully BH to the end, second BH, from the right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Samotářská stěna
To the left of the 'Road from Paradise' route, through cracks and along the edge (2 BH)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Samotářská stěna
From the corner between the Festive and Solitary Wall, hand traverse right on the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Sváteční stěna
To the left of the Legendary Route, up the wall over 4 BH to the ledge. Right to the 5th… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Pařát
From the balcony below the Festive Wall, left along the edge over 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
8-/8
Pařát
Along the prominent left valley edge over 4 BH to the balcony; directly over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Lesní hrot
In the upper wall, from the boulder along the blunt edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Lesní hrot
To the right of the path, Fist, along the edge directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Lesní hrot
Shelf in the middle of the valley wall, higher up slightly to the left to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Lesní hrot
Along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Věž Suché Kamenice
From the saddle via a notch below the overhang, traverse left and along the SW edge to… Rock Climbing
4+
Věž Suché Kamenice
Right of the "Old Route" via an overhanging crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Věž Suché Kamenice
Via a drop from the fore-rock into the S wall and up it over K to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Věž Suché Kamenice
About 5m from the SE edge up the wall slightly right to the edge to K. From the left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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