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Climbing at 02. Suchá Kamenice

242 routes
34 areas
2–10 grades

Suchá Kamenice on the right bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 240 routes on 35 towers and walls – the largest include Severní terasa, Věž Suché Kamenice, Mlynářská stěna, Rohová věž, Toreador and Houbařský kámen. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 2 to 10.

Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 02. Suchá Kamenice has 242 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 10. Explore its 34 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from February 1st to June 30th. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Climb in daylight only.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • Jumps between towers are not allowed.
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.86323, 14.22807

Google Waze
Severní terasa 35 routes Věž Suché Kamenice 20 routes Mlynářská stěna 17 routes Rohová věž 14 routes Toreador 14 routes Houbařský kámen 12 routes Stromová věž 10 routes Lesní duch 10 routes Patolízal 8 routes Kamenický přízrak 8 routes Samotář 7 routes Severní záře 6 routes Zelený panelák 6 routes Šašek 6 routes Růžek 6 routes Lesní věž 5 routes Klamná kráska 5 routes Samotářská stěna 5 routes Mlynářská výspa 5 routes Principál 5 routes Indiánská vesnice 5 routes Hlava pomazaná 4 routes Lesní hrot 4 routes Pařát 4 routes Deset plus 3 routes Pouštní růže 3 routes Smutný oči 3 routes La pláž 3 routes Jeskyňář 2 routes Mys Kamenice 2 routes Sváteční stěna 2 routes Pašerák 1 route Hanoj 1 route Slunovrat 1 route
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
3
Šašek
From the saddle, directly up the NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Šašek
From the West, via a corner crack to the saddle and as the "Upper Variant of the Old… Rock Climbing
3
Principál
From the East to the saddle between the towers and up the S wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Principál
Up the middle of the overhanging S wall into a hole and slightly right to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Šašek
From the saddle, along the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Šašek
From the West, via a wide overhanging crack to the saddle and as the "Upper Variant of… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Mlynářská stěna
From the overgrown balcony at the top on the SE side. In the right part of the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
8-/8
Mlynářská výspa
In the left part of the west wall, via fissures over 4 BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Mlynářská výspa
To the right of the "Cesta za lubem" route, along the edge and right up the wall over 6… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Mlynářská výspa
Like "Tatranská Lomnice" but from the 3rd BH directly along the edge to the 4th BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Mlynářská výspa
Through the fissure in the W wall over 3 K to a balcony. From the right, along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Mlynářská stěna
From the overgrown balcony at the top on the SE side. Up the wall directly over the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Mlynářská stěna
To the right of "Žebrácký banket" (Beggar's Banquet) by the first prominent crack. Start… Rock Climbing
6
Slunovrat
Up a massive chimney and a crack in the corner, 3K to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Toreador
From the gorge between the tower and the massif onto the wedged boulders on the valley… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Toreador
Descent from the massif between the tower and the massif and via the notch to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Toreador
From S or N via the chimney into the gorge. Like "Walk through the Arena", a long… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
9+
Toreador
In the W face from the slope, from the starting BH of the Skaterboy route, difficult via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2+
Toreador
To the right in the valley, the right small face (photo) Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Toreador
Along the West edge directly over 3 BH and via a crack into the "Olé" route. Along this… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2+
Toreador
From the N, via the chimney between the tower and the massif to the wedged boulders, 2m… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Toreador
Via the right crack into the niche. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Toreador
In the NW face via the left crack into the niche. Through the chimney above the overhang,… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8-/8
Indiánská vesnice
In the valley wall to the right of the chimney, through the center of the wall over 3 BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Indiánská vesnice
To the right in the valley, a blunt edge and overhang, see photo. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Indiánská vesnice
Opposite the "Deceptive Beauty" massif, directly up the wall (BH) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Klamná kráska
In the right part of the plateau face along delicate small dihedrals/pillars directly to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Klamná kráska
In the left part of the plateau wall along the edge to the ring. Up the wall and higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Klamná kráska
From the right valley edge into the chimneys and directly along them to the bh, through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Klamná kráska
Through the center of the plateau wall over two K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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