Prostřední Žleb on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 200 routes on 30 towers and walls – the largest include Podskalák, Strážce Prostředního Žlebu, Templář, Šikmá jehla, Troll and Köttewitzká stěna. The climbing is traditional sandstone with rings and textile protection, in both sun and shade; grades from 2 to 8/8+.
Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 03. Prostřední Žleb has 209 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 8/8+. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Route in shadow, Fixed belay, Route on sun.
Rules
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Podskalák Strážce Prostředního Žlebu Templář Šikmá jehla Troll Köttewitzká stěna Pyramida Trpaslík Suk Pohádková vyhlídka Dvojková Strážce údolí Březňák Jelení věž Slévárna zvonů Trdelník Andezit Malý vlk Sklepní kobka Deltaplán Páteř Periferie Greta Ocelová kupa Eisenhower Pivní stín Galaxie Prašivka Dubová hlava Dirkštajn
2+
Jižní hrana
From the saddle to the right onto the S edge and along it to the plateau. Further by the … Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4-
Údolní cesta
By corner in the valley wall under the overhang, step right and by double crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Písně stranou od lidí
To the left on the NW side from the short crack by wall to the bolt (BH). Left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7+/8-
Přímé Písně
From the bolt (BH) of the route 'Songs Away from People' slightly from the right, through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Tatranská variace
From the SW edge traverse along the ledge right into the middle of the S wall to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
2+
Stará cesta
By corner crack in the upland wall to the plateau and by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Krátký proces
To the right in the NW wall by small gully and edge under the overhang. Above it by wall… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Jižní cesta
Up the center of the S wall via K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
8-/8
Krása ironie
Along the right valley edge via 2 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger
4+
Šikmá cesta
From the saddle, traverse right along the ledge to K of the "South Route". Diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
2+
Stará cesta
Up the plateau wall and edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Kouzla a čáry
Left in the S wall via K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8-/8
Šibolet
Up the center of the S wall directly to BH, slightly from the left into the ledge, right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Černá magie
From the saddle to the left of the edge, about 5m upwards, traverse left into the center… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Cesta přátelství
From the S along the ledge to the left into the center of the valley wall. Up the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4-
Severozápadní spára
From the NW in a prominent corner via a chimney and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Severní spára
On the N wall traverse left into the crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Jihozápadní hrana
From the high side, right via a crack to a small balcony on the SW edge and up the smooth… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Brána času
Left of c. Star Rain via the corner to the pillar (loop). From there slightly right up… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
7-/7
Mlhovina snů
Along the NE edge over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Hvězdný déšt
In the middle of the E wall via a crack (K) and up the wall to the summit. (abseiling) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Údolní cesta
Left on the valley side up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
3
Stará cesta
Through the middle of the high wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
7/7+
Neandertálec
In the East face to the right of the "Route from the Niche" by a crack to K (piton) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Jižní cesta
From the upper side right into a crack and obliquely right through the South face to a… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
6
Miriquidi
Far left on the South side by a corner and wall to the ledge. From the left over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Doplněk
To the left on the South side by a prominent edge directly onto the ledge, about 2m by… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay