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Climbing at 03. Prostřední Žleb

209 routes
30 areas
2–8/8+ grades

Prostřední Žleb on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 200 routes on 30 towers and walls – the largest include Podskalák, Strážce Prostředního Žlebu, Templář, Šikmá jehla, Troll and Köttewitzká stěna. The climbing is traditional sandstone with rings and textile protection, in both sun and shade; grades from 2 to 8/8+.

Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 03. Prostřední Žleb has 209 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 8/8+. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Route in shadow, Fixed belay, Route on sun.

Rules

  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.80723, 14.18322

5
Andezit
From the right, along the sharp left upland edge to the ledge and along the edge of the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Andezit
From the start of the 'Sandstone Edge', traverse right to the valley side and up the ramp… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Březňák
To the left of the path in the background along the crack to the balcony and along the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Pivní stín
From the SE corner and further right beyond the edge into the narrow gully, through it… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Pivní stín
From the right along the S edge via 2 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Pivní stín
From the fore-rock up the NE wall directly into the narrow gully and further as the route… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Březňák
In the center of the valley wall over an overhang (1st ring), up the wall to the large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7-/7
Březňák
From the right into the center of the NW wall, up it via 2 bolts to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Březňák
Up the chimney to the left of the path, via the Skořápky inside. Higher up, crawl through… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6+/7-
Březňák
In the left part of the valley wall via the wall (ring), along the indentation to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Březňák
On the NW side to the left of the chimney via a crack over an overhang and along the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6
Sklepní kobka
Through the right part of the North face by a pillar over K (piton) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Březňák
From the right along the small crack to the right valley (S) edge. Up that to the ledge,… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Březňák
On the NW side, to the right of the chimney, along the edge (ring) to the balcony and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Periferie
From the large balcony (from the 1st rappel station) by an overhanging wall over K (piton… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Periferie
Via the wall over 2 BH to the summit of the large balcony. (rappel station) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Periferie
Through the middle of the NE wall to the bolt, transition left behind the edge (2nd bolt)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Periferie
Through the middle of the valley (E) wall via 2 rings to the terrace. (rappelling) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Sklepní kobka
To the left of the "Escape Games" route from the right via the wall to the 1st K (piton)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Sklepní kobka
Through the middle of the East face by a corner and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6-
Sklepní kobka
In the left part of the valley east face by a crack below the overhang (K) and further by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Greta
In the East face, up the wall and a blunt edge via 3 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Greta
Along the valley edge (NE), up a narrow wall via the 1st bolt to a ledge. Left up a blunt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Greta
Right of the "Warm Autumn Sun" route, via a rib to the balcony in the South face. From… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Greta
Left on the massif, via an easy wall to the balcony in the South face. Via the pinnacle… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4-
Deltaplán
Up the right valley edge via a bolt to a platform and then a steep climb to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Deltaplán
From the plateau side, descend briefly right and up a slabby ramp to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Deltaplán
Up the left valley edge to a platform and then a steep climb to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Deltaplán
From the plateau side, left over a small pillar to a platform and then a steep climb to… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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