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Climbing at 03. Prostřední Žleb

209 routes
30 areas
2–8/8+ grades

Prostřední Žleb on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 200 routes on 30 towers and walls – the largest include Podskalák, Strážce Prostředního Žlebu, Templář, Šikmá jehla, Troll and Köttewitzká stěna. The climbing is traditional sandstone with rings and textile protection, in both sun and shade; grades from 2 to 8/8+.

Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 03. Prostřední Žleb has 209 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 8/8+. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Route in shadow, Fixed belay, Route on sun.

Rules

  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.80723, 14.18322

4-
Strážce Prostředního Žlebu
Up the chimney of the "Old Route" to the wedged boulder and traverse right into the S… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Strážce Prostředního Žlebu
Left of the SE edge up the wall and traverse right behind the edge to a ledge in the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6-
Strážce Prostředního Žlebu
Along the right valley edge over 2 K directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Strážce Prostředního Žlebu
Left on the high wall to the balcony and left via the pinnacle to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Strážce Prostředního Žlebu
Up the wall near the S edge over the overhang to the 1st K and further to the K of the SW… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
3
Strážce Prostředního Žlebu
Right of the NW crack from the cave via a chimney to the balcony, then as "High Route" to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Strážce Prostředního Žlebu
Up the wall along the N edge over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Strážce Prostředního Žlebu
Right on the high wall via a crack to its end and up the wall slightly right, then left… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Strážce Prostředního Žlebu
From the South, via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
3
Malý vlk
Right of the "Old Route" up the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Malý vlk
Right of the high edge from the block, directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6
Malý vlk
Right on the valley side via an overhanging crack over K to the balcony. Up the high edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2+
Malý vlk
Left of the high edge up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Malý vlk
From the start of the "Old Route" traverse along the ledge into the valley wall and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Malý vlk
Left on the valley side via a corner and crack to the balcony. Up the high edge to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
6
Šikmá jehla
From the balcony on the South side, in the left part of the South wall over 2 K and from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4+
Šikmá jehla
From the NW edge, traverse along the ledge to the left into the S wall. Over an overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Šikmá jehla
To the right of the NW edge along the cracks, higher up left along the edge into the 'Old… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Danger
6+/7-
Šikmá jehla
From the balcony on the South side, through the middle of the South wall over the K and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4-
Šikmá jehla
Left on the valley wall via the corner between the tower and the fore-peak over the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
3
Šikmá jehla
From the upland side briefly down to the S side. Traverse left and up the wall, then via… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
7-/7
Šikmá jehla
From the start of the Extended Route, right through the crack (1. K) to the end on the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Šikmá jehla
Up the valley NE wall diagonally left to the ledge and further diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Šikmá jehla
To the left in the S wall to the ledge and diagonally left to the ring. Along the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Andezit
To the right of the 'Old Route', along the edge to the ledge towards the ascent of the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4+
Šikmá jehla
All the way to the left along the edge and via the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Šikmá jehla
From the upland side between the rock blocks to the S balcony and left in the S wall via… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4-
Andezit
To the right of the start of the 'Old Route' from the S, up a short wall to the ledge of… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Andezit
On the left on the S side, from the ledge up the wall to the left to the balcony and as… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Andezit
On the right upland side, up a short wall to a ledge, traverse right and ascend steeply… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay

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