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Climbing at 03. Prostřední Žleb

209 routes
30 areas
2–8/8+ grades

Prostřední Žleb on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 200 routes on 30 towers and walls – the largest include Podskalák, Strážce Prostředního Žlebu, Templář, Šikmá jehla, Troll and Köttewitzká stěna. The climbing is traditional sandstone with rings and textile protection, in both sun and shade; grades from 2 to 8/8+.

Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 03. Prostřední Žleb has 209 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 8/8+. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Route in shadow, Fixed belay, Route on sun.

Rules

  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.80723, 14.18322

5+
Slévárna zvonů
By the Northeast edge (2 BH) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Slévárna zvonů
By the North edge (BH) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Slévárna zvonů
In the middle of the East wall by chimney to the top/crest. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Slévárna zvonů
By the East edge (BH) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7+/8-
Slévárna zvonů
In the S wall by crack (BH) and wall (K) further from the left (BH) to the belay station. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Templář
To the right of the 'Old Route' by edge and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ocelová kupa
In the middle of the valley (East) wall by chimney through the constriction further to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Ocelová kupa
From the North side by crack to the end (K) and by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Ocelová kupa
Up the valley wall along the crack to the balcony and to the 1st K. By wall (2nd K) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Ocelová kupa
To the left of the route 'Stress Test' by corner crack to the pulpit and by wall to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Templář
From the start of the 'Old Route' descend to the balcony in the valley wall. Left behind… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Templář
To the right on the upland side by chimney to the block and through the hole to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Templář
From the upland side by the wall of the small pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Templář
From the upland side by corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Templář
From the start of the 'Old Route' by chimney over the block directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Templář
To the left of the 'Old Route' by wall and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Templář
From the block at the left plateau edge up the wall diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Templář
In the valley wall up a crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Templář
To the left of the 'Upland Path' by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Templář
From the start of the route "Valley Chimney" along the ramp diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8-/8
Pohádková vyhlídka
In the large corner from the E side, up and right to the 1st K. Up the overhanging wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Templář
On the SW side up a crack via K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5
Templář
Left of the "Valley Route" up a small corner and edge into a crack and along it to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Pohádková vyhlídka
As the Foxy Lady route via the 1st BH to the small balcony on the edge (slings). Step… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Pohádková vyhlídka
Up the valley crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Pohádková vyhlídka
Right of the route "Hloupý Honza" (Foolish Honza) up a small crack and wall (1st K) into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Pohádková vyhlídka
Along the valley edge from the right to the balcony on the edge. From the left up the rib… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Pohádková vyhlídka
2 m left of the left valley edge from a rock, up the wall via BH and right onto the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Pohádková vyhlídka
Up the corner of the route "Foxes Come at Night" to the end (or descent from the gorge)… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Pohádková vyhlídka
Along the right valley edge via a crack and edge (hourglass) over 2 ledges to a large… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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