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Climbing at 03. Prostřední Žleb

209 routes
30 areas
2–8/8+ grades

Prostřední Žleb on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 200 routes on 30 towers and walls – the largest include Podskalák, Strážce Prostředního Žlebu, Templář, Šikmá jehla, Troll and Köttewitzká stěna. The climbing is traditional sandstone with rings and textile protection, in both sun and shade; grades from 2 to 8/8+.

Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 03. Prostřední Žleb has 209 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 8/8+. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Route in shadow, Fixed belay, Route on sun.

Rules

  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.80723, 14.18322

2
Suk
From the upper side traverse left to the valley side, by the indentation and wall to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Suk
From the right onto the valley (NE) edge and along it to the balcony. Continue as "Old… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Suk
In the middle of the South face by a crack below the overhang into a small cave, traverse… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4-
Suk
To the left of the SE edge by a corner into a niche in the edge. Over the overhang and… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Suk
Through the chimney in the North face below the overhang and over the overhang into the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Troll
From the start of the "South Route" along the ledge traverse right into the valley face,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2+
Troll
Far left on the South side via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
3
Troll
To the right on the South side by the edge, wall and rib to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
2
Troll
By the "Old Route" to the overgrown terrace, left of the "North Route" to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Troll
By the "Old Route" to the overgrown terrace, left in the North face by a crack to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Troll
To the right in the valley face from the block left onto the edge and along it to K … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Troll
To the right of the "Valley Route" by a small corner to K (piton), via the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2+
Troll
To the right on the North side via the wall to the overgrown terrace. As Old Route to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2
Troll
By the "Old Route" to the terrace, 2m left of the upper edge up the steps and briefly… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2
Troll
From the west, up the steps to the overgrown terrace. To the right along the upper edge… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Strážce údolí
Right on the North side, via a crack-chimney to the summit (anchor bolt). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4-
Strážce údolí
In the middle of the North face, via a crack below a fallen block into a saddle and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6
Strážce údolí
Up the right valley edge via a fixed point to the balcony and via a crack-groove to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Strážce údolí
From the terrace on the valley side, from the start of "Cold Edge", slightly left up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Strážce údolí
Like "Valley of Joys", via a fixed point to the ledge. Through the corner directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Strážce údolí
From the balcony on the valley side at the left edge, right of the "End of Season" route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Strážce údolí
At the left valley edge, via a groove to the end and right to the balcony to a fixed… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Strážce údolí
On the South side, up the center of the wall via a fixed point to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4+
Trpaslík
From the ring of the "Greybeard" route directly up the wall, higher up like the "North… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Trpaslík
Right of the NE edge, up the wall to a ring, traverse left above the roof-like overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4-
Trpaslík
Below the roof-like overhang on the East side, from the right, diagonally left up the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4-
Trpaslík
From the West edge, traverse right to the balcony in the South face. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Trpaslík
From the right to the West edge and up it via a fixed point to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Trpaslík
4m right of the "Old Route", up the center of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Trpaslík
From the ledge, up the center of the North face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1

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